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Filtered by tag ('health and wellbeing')
A large percentage of cat owners have more than one cat. This can complicate things in terms of food, especially if one of your cats is on a diet. Here are some tips to make controlling food intake in a multi-cat home a bit easier:
1. No more free-choice feeding.
This method of feeding is fine if you have only one cat, but in a multi-cat home it keeps you from being able to monitor each cat’s food intake. Although free-choice feeding is convenient, switching to a scheduled meal feeding method instead will be beneficial to your cat that’s on a diet.
2. Designate feeding stations.
If possible, take advantage of the multiple rooms in your home by isolating the cat on a diet. Ideally these rooms should have doors. When it’s meal time, separate this cat from the others and give them their allotted food. Allow 20-30 minutes for them to finish and then remove their bowl.
If you don’t have separate rooms, consider feeding the slimmer cat on a surface the overweight cat is unable to jump on to, such as a counter or shelf. Others have also recommended using the cat carrier as a safe and secure feeding station for your cat.
If completely isolating your cats is impossible, try to feed them as far away from each other as possible and keep a watchful eye. Monitoring your cats will allow you to make sure that each cat is eating from their own bowl.
Note: Water bowls should be available to all cats at all times throughout the day.
3. Make it a routine.
If you want to succeed with meal feeding, it’s best that you stick to a schedule. Cats like routine, and will quickly learn that they have 20-30 minutes to eat in their designated feeding station.
With feeding stations, a strict schedule, and/or meal monitoring, you can ensure that your cats are always eating their own food, and hopefully start to see results in your overweight cat. As always, talk to your veterinarian to find out what feeding schedule will meet each of your cat's individual needs.
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Some dogs seem to be able to eat just about anything and feel just fine, from garbage, to an unidentifiable dead thing they found in the park, to cockroaches…
Other dogs aren’t so lucky. Even their regular kibble seems to give them a stomach upset, resulting in vomiting and diarrhoea. If your dog is predisposed to feeling queasy, here are a few ideas that might help you to soothe their roiling stomach.
Check for allergies
A dog who has problems with regular dog food may be allergic to an ingredient which causes a negative reaction in their digestive system. Gluten, soy and corn are often components of dry and wet dog food products that may disagree with some dogs.
In conjunction with your vet, it is possible to undertake an experimental program in which individual food components are removed one at a time in order to determine if an allergy exists. For example, if symptoms desist after an ingredient such as wheat is removed, it is likely the dog has a gluten-intolerance. Once you have identified a problem-ingredient, helping your dog feel well is achieved simply through removing it from their dinner bowl by switching to a different food product.
Change to a specially formulated diet
Many dog food companies have developed products specifically tailored for dogs with stomach sensitivity. These foods can help put an end to issues a sensitive dog may have with commonplace dog food recipes. Generally speaking, the more meat and vegetable the product contains the better. Usually the higher quality the ingredients the easier they are to digest so paying a little extra can pay off long term, with less need to visit the vet. Avoid fatty foods (more than 15% fat is a big no-no) as they are much harder to break down than carbohydrates and protein. Fibres such as beet pulp can further assist in improving digestive function and go towards settling your pup’s tummy.
Keep it simple
It may seem unkind to give a dog the same food all the time – it would be boring after all for us to eat the same thing everyday. Yet when it comes to dogs with sensitive stomachs, variety is not the spice of life. Restricting the number of different kinds of food can help prevent aches and pains. Keep him or her largely on one kind of food and add one additional variety of treat they are fond of to give on occasion – and make sure they aren’t sneaking scraps from the garbage!
Cats, like people, can start shaking to keep warm. There might be a problem however if your cat seems to shiver and tremble all the time without any apparent reason.
1. Hypoglycemia
Lowered blood sugar, or hypoglycaemia, is a common cause of shaking in cats. It generally occurs, like in humans, when a cat hasn’t eaten for some time. By feeding them dinner or a treat, their blood sugar levels should raise and shaking desist.
Low blood sugar levels can also result when a cat is suffering from digestive problems like vomiting, diarrhoea or constipation. Encouraging the cat to eat in such a case is also the solution.
If a cat refuses to eat, out of fussiness or because they feel ill, placing a drop of honey in their mouth (no more than a tablespoon) can quickly elevate blood sugar levels and restore them to appropriate levels.
2. Hyperthermia
A cat with an advanced infection suffering a high fever may start shaking due to ‘chills’. It is a good idea for cat owners to keep a thermometer on hand to test their cat if they suspect illness. A temperature above 103.5 degrees Fahrenheit indicates a fever and that a trip to the vet is due.
3. Hypothermia
Just as a heightened internal temperature can cause shaking in a cat, so too can a lowered internal temperature result in shivering. Healthy adult cats can usually regulate normal temperature levels internally, however young and old cats may struggle. Warm blankets and heating pads in cold weather can help vulnerable cats to keep cosy.
4. Pain
Cats seldom express much openly when they are in pain – yet shaking may be a sign they are suffering due to an injury or illness. If you suspect this may be the case, take your cat to receive medical attention immediately.
5. Stress
A stressed or anxious cat may start shaking uncontrollably due to a nervous outburst. Cats are sensitive animals and it can be difficult to discover what exactly is troubling them. Changes in the environment, no matter how innocuous they seem to us, can spark distress in cats who thrive on predictability. New furniture, the sight of another cat prowling the neighbourhood it can see out the window or sounds from the building site next door can all cause a cat to become unhappy and shake with distress.
If you are able to remove the object that is upsetting your cat, try to do so. If it is something like a new sofa you are attached to, or outside your control such as neighbourhood noise, try providing other comforting items to help you cat adapt to the changes that are upsetting it. More hidey-hole beds around the house and perches to sit on are great at relieving cat stress, as felines feel naturally safer when up high or able to hide in a dark space away from ‘danger’.
As always, we recommend consultation with a veterinarian to rule out serious underlying conditions first to make sure your pet receives the perfect treatment for their problem.
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Eczema is a symptom rather than a disease itself. It is a general term applied to the inflammation of the epidermis, or outer layer of skin. The appearance of redness, hair loss, papules, pustules, weeping skin sores, crusting, scaling and dryness are all indicators your dog is suffering from the condition.
Due to its definition as a symptom, eczema has many different potential causes. Inflammation may result from exposure to chemical substances, vegetation, food allergens, dust, humidity and insect bites. It may also be a symptom of infections with viral, bacterial, fungal or yeast-based origins. In other cases, self-trauma, such as repeated licking, bitting, chewing, scratching or rubbing, due to stress or lice or flea infestation is the cause.
Dogs who live predominately outdoors are the most likely to be effected by the condition, which is exacerbated by humidity, adverse weather conditions and seasonal plant growth. Eczema typically strongly effects the areas least protected by a dog’s coat, such as the feet, chin, nose, hocks, stifles and belly.
Diagnosis can be achieved by a quick visual inspection, however treatment of eczema can be difficult due to the range of potential causes. Consultation with a veterinarian can be necessary to isolate the most likely causes. If food allergens are suspected, supervised trials in which food groups are eliminated to see if symptoms subsist are the best way of determining precisely which are the ‘problem’ foods.
Possible parasites causing the issue can be identified through physical examination and skin sampling. Bacterial and fungal culture tests and microscopic examination of hair can also be used to discover organisms that may be responsible for eczema. If the latter is determined as the cause, your vet will usually prescribe specialised medications.
If a dog is self-mutilating and parasites are not a factor, behavioural intervention is necessary. Stress, boredom and loneliness can all result in a dog obsessively licking and causing painful skin irritation. The solutions are increased exercise and socialisation potentially used in conjunction with canine anti-stress medication in severe cases.
Until the root cause can be determined and eliminated, reduction of discomfort for an affected dog is the goal. Soothing creams and gels exist tailored to the problem that are non-toxic if the dog licks the area following application, and should be used until the eczema disappears.
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Cats, like middle-aged men, can suffer from baldness. Thankfully, the condition is normally treatable depending on the source of the problem.
Motivated by stress or other psychological issues, some cats can ‘re-style’ their own hair by obsessive over-grooming. Known as ‘psychogenic alopecia’, hair loss in these cases usually starts on the abdomen, progresses to the backs of the thighs and then reaches the back – essentially all the places best accessible to a cat’s overenthusiastic tongue and teeth. Some cats have been known to completely divest themselves of their coat in their anxious drive to groom.
Happily, the cat’s lack of fur is usually only a cosmetic issue in these cases, not causing harm to cats in other ways – though, naturally, due to the nature of the negative factors driving psychogenic alopecia, it must be addressed as a matter of priority.
Potential stress triggers are numerous: a cat may be bullied by the other pets you keep in your house, or troubled by the view of a neighbour’s cat out the window which makes it feel its territory is under threat. Boredom is another cause of stress. It may seem like an animal as sleep-loving as a cat would find it difficult to be bored, yet it must be remembered in the wild, felines spend much of their waking time hunting for dinner. Modern day cats, who find their food magically appears in their bowl, miss out on the mental and physical stimulation the act of hunting brings. Like any creature driven, and prevented, from carrying out a task they have evolved to complete, this may cause frustration and malaise.
Enriching the environment with toys and climbing furniture as well as increasing play time is a great way to relieve stress and boredom in affected cats - and makes them spend more time frolicking and less time ripping their hair out! In severe cases, calming medication prescribed by a veterinarian may be required to reduce psychological pressures perceived by a cat – but this is usually only as a last resort.
Psychogenic alopecia is not the only cause of baldness in cats. Flea infestation can cause itchy kitties to madly groom themselves to attempt to relieve their irritation, leading to hair loss. Simple de-flea treatments and over the counter prevention products are the easy solution in cases such as these.
Bladder conditions can also drive a cat to lick their belly, likewise resulting in baldness. If this cause is suspected, tailored veterinary treatment is essential.
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Pets often enjoy ‘supplementing’ their diet with things they find in the backyard. Cats have been known to taste-test slugs, with their owners asking afterwards if they need be worried if their feline’s unusual predilection for the slimy creatures presents a health risk.
Slugs in themselves do not pose a significant problem to cat’s digestive system – insects and the like are a natural part of the feline diet. Though slugs are non-toxic, the mucous they produce may cause your cat to drool or vomit.
Diligent gardeners eager to deter slugs from their gardens may create the slimy creatures are a far greater threat to cats than they would normally be. Poisons absorbed by a slug before it is eaten may present a health hazard to a cat misfortunate enough to have eaten it. Depending on the slug-deterrent used, one slug is unlikely to cause terrible results. Yet a cat who eats poisoned slugs as a habit may be in significant danger as the toxins build up in their system.
Symptoms of poisoning include:
Agitation
Drooling
Muscle tremors and seizures
Racing heart rate
Heightened temperature
Lungworm is another problem that can occur as a result of slug ingestion. Slugs and snails are regularly infested by the parasitical lungworm. If a cat eats an infected slug, they too can become hosts. Lungworms cause difficulty with breathing through damaging the airways and interfering with mucus accumulation in the lung tissue, with possibly fatal consequences. Lungworm vaccinations exist for cats and dogs to provide protection against this issue.
Keeping you cat indoors, especially just after rain when slugs emerge en masse to roam the garden, is essentially the only sure way to keep a predisposed cat from slug-eating.
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All dogs need to eat a balanced diet in order to maintain a healthy lifestyle. But for dogs with cancer, it’s even more important that their diet contains all the right ingredients.
The weight loss that occurs in dogs with cancer is referred to as “cancer cachexia.” Both fat and muscle are lost, leaving your dog malnourished. Even if your dog is consuming an adequate amount of food, it’s the cancer cells that are actually eating it.
So what does cancer like to eat, and more importantly, what doesn’t it? Tumor cells prefer to feed off of carbohydrates, so your dog should be put on a low carb diet. Foods with lower glucose carbs such as apples, oatmeal, and brown rice, are good options for dogs with cancer. With less carbohydrates, there will be less for tumor cells to grow on.
A dog with cancer will probably not eat as much as they used to, so it’s important that what little food they eat contains as many calories as possible. The food should also be high in fat and moderately high in protein, but not processed protein like the kind found in hot dogs or bologna. A diet with high fat and protein levels will help to combat the loss of weight and muscle mass caused by cancer cachexia.
Added nutrients such as Omega-3 fatty acids may also be beneficial to dogs with cancer, but it’s best to consult your veterinarian before supplementing.
As a quick recap, the recommended diet for a dog fighting cancer includes:
Small amounts of carbohydrates
High in caloric content
Moderately high in quality proteins
High in fat
Omega-3 fatty acids
Remember to talk to your veterinarian to determine what combination is best for your dog’s cancer.
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Skin disorders can be uncomfortable and at times debilitating for dogs. They can range from minor, easily treatable conditions to more chronic disorders that can impair your dog's life.
Skin conditions are one of the leading reasons that dogs are brought to their veterinarian and can be caused by a huge variety of factors, from the seasons, weather, diet and hereditary conditions.
Depending on what the particular skin condition is, there will be a variety of symptoms that may present themselves in your dog.
Common or general symptoms of skin disorders are:
Rashes
Hair loss or bald patches
Redness or inflammation
Scabs
Dry, flaky skin
Lesions
Swelling or lumps
Skin discolouration
Scaly patches
Scratching, licking or chewing at skin
Types of skin conditions
Infectious skin disorders
Ringworm – a fungal infection of the hair and follicles
Alabama rot – an often fatal condition produced from toxins by the E. Coli bacteria
Canine scabies – microscopic parasites invading the skin.
Malassezia dermatitis – very common yeast infection.
Cheyletiella – mild form of dermatitis caused by mites.
Immune-mediated skin disorders
Pemphigus- autoimmune skin disease causing ulceration and crusting of the skin, fluid-filled sacs and cysts and pus filled lesions.
Discoid lupus erythematosus- autoimmune disease that affects the basal cell layer of the skin.
Hereditary skin disorders
Ehlers-Danlos – or skin fragility syndrome, causes the skin to stretch, sag and become very painful.
Hypotrichosis – or congenital alopecia. Hair loss from birth or early age.
Ichthyosis – Thickening of the outer layer of the skin and foot pads.
Seborrheic dermatitis – chronic re-occuring mild form of dermatitis
Environmental skin disorders
Acral lick granulomas – often caused by anxiety, causes dogs to lick (usually) their legs and feet causing sore lesions.
Staphylococcus infection – contagious bacterial infection.
Hot spot – or moist dermatitis is a localised skin inflammation.
Skin disorders can also be caused by fleas, seasonal allergies (pollen, dust, mites, grasses) or food allergies (beef, chicken, wheat, corn, food colourings).
Some skin disorders are sometimes a marker for other more serious health conditions such as hormonal abnormalities or even tumours.
If you are even slightly concerned or notice any symptoms take your dog to the vet where they will investigate. Your vet is likely to perform skin biopsies, microscopic examinations, allergy testing or blood tests.
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There is much opposition surrounding whether or not your dog should sleep in your bed. Some experts believe not only is it wholly unhealthy for your pooch to sleep with you, but it sends the wrong behavioural messages to them as well. Others, scoff at those accusations and believe having a pooch sleep so close to you is beneficial for both owner and dog.
So what are you supposed to do?
Fortunately, there is actually no right or wrong answer and the decision comes down to you, your dog, your personal preferences and your unique home situation. As such, no one should tell you that your choice is wrong - because no one is wrong!
In America, nearly half of all dog owners allow their dogs to sleep in their bed, including the littlest breeds, right up to the giant of giant dogs. So let's take a look at whether your dog should be in bed with you.
Benefits of having your dog in your bed
When near their owners, dogs tend to sleep a lot better.
Dogs feel like they are bonding and building a closer connection to you, even though you are asleep. This is especially true if you work full-time during the day.
Can prevent naughty behaviour, like barking, which can happen if they are left to sleep elsewhere in the house.
Owners often feel safer and calmer.
Helps dogs feel more part of the family.
When not to let your dog sleep in your bed
If your dog is unable to control their bladder.
If your dog is having joint problems and can't get on and off the bed easily.
If you suffer from allergies or asthma - it's even recommended your pet sleep in a different room. If you can't face the idea of having your dog sleep somewhere else, you should consider allergy vaccinations to help build your tolerance.
If they disturb your sleep. If you suffer from insomnia and sleep with your pet, that could actually be the cause of your sleeping woes.
Your sleep cycle can be disrupted by a dog itching (for example) which can affect your mood and responsiveness the next day and even lower your immunity. This is especially true for children or those with autoimmune issues.
If your dog has aggressive tendencies.
If your dog has naughty tendencies or is still a puppy - it is probably better they sleep in a crate.
Many people worry that by allowing a dog to sleep on their bed, they are allowing them to ascend to the top of the pack! While, yes, there will be some dogs who express this form of behaviour, most dogs just want to be close to their owners, and actually, you should take it as a wonderful compliment, because dogs only ever sleep with people and animals they trust. As long as up until this point, you've always expressed clear dominance in your relationship and your dog realises that they must be 'invited' into the bed, you should have no problems at all.
However, your choice to allow your dog on the bed must be one you are sure about. Suddenly asking your dog to no longer sleep in your bed after many months or years will be a real shock to them, and hard for you to train. If you decide to no longer allow your dog onto your bed, you will have to make the floor more enticing with lots of treats and praise when they are off the bed. Never give them attention when they are on your bed. It may take some time, but it can be rectified.
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You may think that once your puppy is toilet trained, for the rest of their life you'll never have to contend with accidents occuring inside your home.
Think again.
It's not uncommon for adult dogs to begin soiling inside the home for seemingly no apparent reason. However, there is generally always a medical or behavioural reason and as a doggy parent, it's up to you to investigate and find out why.
Where in the house your dog innappropriately uses the toilet can give you an insight to a possible cause, but first and foremost, you should take your dog to the vet to rule out any medical causes.
Medical reasons for indoor soiling include:
Gastrointestinal upset
Change in diet
Incontinence caused by an unknown medical problem.
Reaction to a particular medication.
Age-related incontinence/cognitive dysfunction.
If your vet rules out any medical causes for this sudden onset of indoor toilet use, then it may indeed be caused by a behavioural problem.
Behavioural reasons for indoor soiling include:
Lack of house training
Incomplete house training
Breakdown in house training
A surface preference
Anxiety
Fear of going outside
Dislike of cold or rainy conditions
Urine marking
Separation anxiety
Submissive/excitement urination
Treating indoor elimination, totally depends on what the cause is. Only once you know the root cause will you be able to successfully stop the troubled toilet times. However there are some general tips you can adopt to help the situation.
General useful tips
Have a consistent feeding schedule and don't leave food out between meals.
Take your dog outside frequently, particularly first thing in the morning and last thing at night. Adult dogs should be taken outside at least four times a day.
Be aware of where your dog is at all times.
When you take your dog outside to go to the toilet, stay with them and reward them each time they eliminate outside so positive associations can be made.
Don'ts for toilet training
Never punish your dog for going to the toilet in inappropriate places or rub their noses in it.
If you see your dog going to the toilet, make noises to stop them and take them outside straightaway. Once they have used the toilet outside, praise them and reward them for doing so.
Never physically punish your dog.
Avoid cleaning up using ammonia. Urine also contains ammonia so it may only encourage your dog to urinate there again. Instead, use a cleaning product specifically for pets.
Never punish your dog without attempting to train them to correct their behaviour.
Accept that if your don't catch your dog in the act of going to the toilet there is nothing you can do. Punishing them after they have already done it, is not going to improve their chances or correcting their behaviour.
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