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Filtered by tag ('tips and tricks')
If you share a cat with someone and then decide to move house, you may consider the idea of your pet living in two new homes. This is particularly evident when a relationship ends and both partners have a deep attachment to their feline companion. There are also work situations that might require your cat to move back and forth between two different places. While situations like this may work for you, you might wonder whether such an arrangement is really viable or fair for your cat. As it turns out, a lot hinges on the cat's personality and the specifics of your individual situation. If you're trying to make this difficult decision, make sure you consider all of the following.
Is your cat an indoor or outdoor pet?
If your cat is an indoor pet, you immediately eliminate some of the major reasons why living in two homes might be problematic. If you have an outdoor cat, you need to give some thought to hazards and confusions that can result. Specifically, it might be disorienting for your cat to be shifted from place to place on a regular basis, and some cats might have more trouble figuring out how to return home (or indeed figuring out what counts as home). In addition, reduced familiarity with an area poses more risks in terms of potential road traffic accidents, so there is an argument to be made for exposing your cat to as few outdoor environments as possible. Of course, you could always consider transitioning your outdoor cat to indoor life if you plan to have the pet live in two homes, but not all outdoor cats find this transition satisfactory.
What is your cat's personality like?
Some cats are laid back, relaxed creatures that will adapt very easily to sudden changes in circumstances (such as moving between two different homes). In contrast, fearful, elderly or clingy cats might find it quite traumatic to be shipped between two places on a regular basis. It's very important to take your cat's unique personality traits into consideration, so try to think about other situations in which your pet was challenged to cope with change. It's also worth thinking about whether two homes will mean more exposure to unfamiliar people, as socially anxious cats might find this jarring and it could promote withdrawn or fearful behavior in both homes.
How does your cat react to traveling?
Traveling is another important element of living in two homes. Even if your cat is a chilled out indoor pet, the arrangement becomes less viable if your cat hates being in the car. If traveling prompts your cat to yowl and scream, it may not be fair to ask your furry friend to endure this experience on a regular basis. However, if your cat finds car rides exciting or just boring, traveling between two homes may be viewed as no big deal. If you don't know what your cat thinks of the car, try some experimental drives and assess the reaction.
Once you've taken into consideration your cat's temperament and ability to cope with change, you should hopefully be able to set up an arrangement that suits everybody!
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Hiding is common cat behaviour. However some overly shy and anxious cats can take to hiding constantly, and not just from strange visitors to the house but family members as well.
Reducing the stress levels of a timid cat is the best way to encourage them to emerge from their hiding places. Ask yourself what might be discomfiting them in your household. Is there another cat that might be bullying it? Or a dog? Are there loud noises outside due to construction next door?
If possible, remove the environmental factors that might be causing your cat distress. If you are unable to do so, try blocking it out. Playing slow rhythmic music has been suggested as a feline stress reliever which has the added benefit of masking outside crashing and banging. Strategically placed curtains can remove the sight of other cats and the view of strangers walking past the house that may be upsetting your cat.
Playtime is also important to relax nervous cats. Playing releases happy hormones that assist with reducing stress hormones. Plus – a cat that is fixating on a feather on the end of the string has less time to fret about the barking dog next door.
Pheromone technology can be a vital tool for cat owners with timid pets. By mimicking natural pheromones that relax cats, products that dispense the substance have been found to reduce anxiety related issues. Pheromone products include plug in diffusers, sprays, collars and wipes.
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Bringing a new dog into your home can be a stressful as well as joyous occasion when you already have a ‘pack’ in residence. Your current dog or dogs make take some time to adjust to your new family member, especially if they are older and set in their ways.
The best time to bring home your new dog is simply when you have the greatest amount of time on your hands to dedicate to the introduction process. It is crucial the introduction be done carefully to diffuse the likelihood of your already established dog attacking the ‘intruder’ in their territory.
It is recommended the first meeting of the dogs take place away from your home, in a neutral area like a park or anywhere else your dog is unlikely to feel territorial over. Lead your dog and get another person to bring along the new dog. Allow the dogs to sniff and get to know one another. Go for a walk together, letting the dogs sniff where the other has walked.
When at home, it is advisable to only introduce the dogs for quite some time in controlled circumstances when you are present to watch them interact. Set the new dog up in a room of their own, such as the laundry, allowing the old dog to roam the places they used to freely. Alternate the dogs so the new dog has some time to explore their new home and the old dog some quiet time in confinement. This will allow them both get used to the smell of the other.
Let the dogs meet face to face only when you are present to divide them if aggression develops. If your new dog is a puppy, your adult dog will need plenty of timeouts even if they get on well immediately – puppy exuberance can be exhausting!
A cautious and patient approach can help establish a long-lasting friendship between pets with as little conflict as possible. With understanding on your part of the dog’s natural territorial nature, most dogs acclimatise to having a new friend join the family, and begin to relish having a new playmate to spend their days with.
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Eye contact has significance with dogs just as it does with humans. The meaning of eye contact differs between the human and dog worlds however. With people, making eye contact is simply politeness. It indicates you are paying attention and interested in what they have to say.
Dogs use eye contact instead as a dominance behavior. A stare is a statement. It declares: I am higher in the pack hierarchy than you. It is meant as a form of intimidation. Two dogs standing still, locked in a stare, usually explodes a few moments later in a flurry of growls and teeth.
A dog that purposefully makes eye contact with you before eating their dinner is likely warning you subtly away from their food. It is a threat, warning that if you come closer, they will defend their meal.
Food possessiveness is a natural and common canine behavior but is to be strongly discouraged, as is the attempt to ‘overthrow’ you in the pack hierarchy.
One technique which can help dissolve food guarding is to ask your dog to sit before every meal. Until they follow your command, they will not receive their food. Then, serve only a quarter of their meal. Stay while they eat and finish what they have. Then approach, ask them to sit, and place in the next quarter. Repeat this process until they have finished their meal. Your dog will soon grasp they must be respectful to you around dinnertime and your approach likely means they will receive more food, not have it stolen.
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We've all seen a cat with its back arched, ears flattened, mouth wide open, with their tail flicking behind them. But why?
A cat’s hiss is a way of informing you that it’s agitated and doesn’t want you to come any closer or something worse will happen. Many experts believe that cats hiss to mimic snakes- with the hope that it leads to the animal to back off. Your cat may feel that they, or something they're protective of, is being threatened.
To alleviate the hissing, it’s important to observe your cat's situation next time they are hissing. Ask yourself questions like: Does this behavior occur when strangers come over? Do thhe only hiss when you are handling him?
Common reasons for why your cat may be hissing include:
Introducing a new pet such as a cat or dog
Redirected aggression
Being in pain
Over-petting
Poorly socialized when young
Strangers - both humans and animals alike
Once you identify why your cat is hissing, you can work towards preventing it. If your cat is hissing at a guest in your house it may help if you allow your cat to smell something that that person has handled, so they become used to their smell. If your cat is hissing while you pet him, it's possible they're in pain so schedule an appointment with your vet. Lastly, if the hissing seems to be directed towards a new cat, keep them segregrated and provide them with seperate litter boxes, bowls, and toys. Eventually your resident cat will warm up once they stop feling threatened.
Remember that when your cat starts hissing, the best thing you can do is to let them calm down on their own. Give your cat some winding down time, and try talking to them in a soothing voice which could help reduce the anxiety they feel when hissing.
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A dog that pulls on the leash can make a walk in the park a battle rather than a pleasure. If your dog pulls the problem can be corrected with training and effort on your part, as well as a number of modern devices that can assist you in gaining control of your pet.
The foremost thing to remember when approaching this issue is that dogs are not born knowing how to walk on a leash. Like learning to obey the ‘sit’ command, or not to go to the bathroom in the house, a dog must be taught how to walk neatly with you on your walks.
Naturally, a dog exploring a new place will tend not to walk in a straight line at a consistent pace. They will wander side to side, pause to sniff something, run wildly for a few minutes, sniff something else and pee on everything they possibly can. The leash interferes with these behaviours, leading to tugging and a strained arm on your part as your dog tries to do as it wishes heedless of you and your wishes.
Generally speaking, a dog pulls because they find that it works. Pulling means they get to sniff that odd thing on the ground. Pulling means they get to talk to the other dog they wished to or get to the park faster. If pulling works from your dog’s perspective, why stop?
Teaching your dog to cease their pulling behaviour is centred around explaining to them pulling will not get them what they want. One great training technique is to put your dog on a leash and walk forwards as you usually would. As soon as your dog starts to pull, stop and start walking backwards. When the lead becomes loose again, walk forwards and give your dog a treat. If the pulling starts again, start walking backwards again. Pretty soon your dog will get the idea pulling doesn’t achieve anything, where as a loose lead means treats and the opportunity to go forwards.
Consistency is important when training no-pull behaviour. Once you begin, every time you go for a walk you must continue your training. If your dog succeeds once at achieving what it wishes by pulling, you are back to square one.
Headcollars or specially designed no-pull harnesses are also an option for headstrong dogs. Rather like a horse’s halter, headcollars work by giving the owner control over the dog’s head, making it difficult for the dog to pull. Harnesses designed for this purpose tend to have features which contract under the armpits, discouraging dogs from surging ahead and giving the owner enhanced control.
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Dogs are naturally territorial and like to patrol familiar areas. Therefore, most dogs are happy to patrol the yard or go for a walk to the park. However some other dogs feel the desire to explore further afield and will attempt to do it alone. Perhaps your dog has attempted to escape or has perhaps succeeded a number of times.
The action of escaping, either by jumping or digging under the fence, managing to open the gate or even running through electric fencing may be all your dog needs to fulfil their desire and will then happily stay within your home's perimeter, while others will take off and go exploring. In either case, it can be gut wrenching for owners knowing their dog is trying to break free or has done so a number of times.
First things first, before you figure out why your dog is escaping, you need to find out HOW they are doing it because your first priority is to keep them safe and contained.
Is your fence transparent in any way? If your dog can see beyond your yard, it will give them a greater desire to escape and explore. Covering up the transparencies will reduce their urges.
If your dog can jump great heights, introducing an electronic fence in addition to your actual fence is a good idea, and, vice versa, if your dog is able to run through electric fencing, doubling up with a physical fence can also reduce their ability to run away.
Make sure any physical fencing you have is higher and sturdy enough to prevent your dog from jumping over it.
Use materials that have smooth surfaces to prevent any potential climbing capabilities.
Make sure there are no gaps that your dog can squeeze through. Fill in these gaps with chicken wire, large rocks or chain link - always be sure to keep any sharp points or edges out of reach from unassuming paws.
Prevent your clever dog from opening fences by keeping them padlocked or alternatively install a self-closing system.
Once your dog is extra secure, you can address the reasons why they are trying to or are escaping.
Reasons why dogs escape:
Separation anxiety
Your dog's escaping act may be a symptom of a much larger separation anxiety issue. Your dog may be feeling anxious whenever they are away from you and this is just one way they display it. If signs like pacing, howling or trembling are present then your best option is treating the anxiety issues wholly rather than just the issue of them escaping. Chances are the desire to escape with be dulled once they are feeling more calm.
Searching for a mate
This reason is most prevalent in male and un-neutered or spayed dogs.
What to do:
If possible, have your dogs spayed or neutered! This alone might not the stop running away altogether but it does reduce the motivation.
Exploration
As mentioned at the start of this article, your dog may be simply fulfilling their natural desire to explore.
What to do:
If they haven't been, consider getting your dog neutered which decreases their roaming desires. Increasing amounts of exercise is a very good way to help your dog to stop escaping because a tired dog is more likely to take a nap than jump the fence!
Fear
Fear could be a very real reason as to why your dog is escaping. What they are fearful of varies, from certain people, the weather or even the location itself.
What to do:
Create positive associations with your yard, making sure every time your dog is there that something nice happens to them. If you know what the root cause of the fear is, eliminate it so it doesn't happen again. Also during this time, only allow your dog into the yard if someone is able to supervise them to make sure everything is going smoothly. If the problem persists, seeking anxiety medication from your vet is a good idea.
Social contact
Most dogs love other dogs and people and them escaping might be their way of finding some friends to play with.
What to do:
If your dog is spending more than three hours alone in the yard, the likeliness that they are lonely increases. A simple way to combat this is to spend more time interacting with your dog. The more time spent bonding and doing things together the less attractive running away becomes for your pet. You could also consider introducing a new dog to your household so your pooch has a constant companion.
Importantly, remember to never punish or coddle your dog when trying to stop them from escaping.
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Is your dog fond of digging in your yard? Is it driving you mad? Is your garden looking like a bombs gone off? Are you at your wit's end? Don't worry - we're here to help you!
The first thing to remember is that dogs never dig to just be bad or to spite you. Simply, digging is in their nature.
Dogs in the wild dig to create dens in order to protect and raise their young - keeping them out of harm's way and avoiding exposure to extreme weather conditions.
Domestic dogs still carry out this behaviour by choosing to sleep in den like places or 'digging' and circling an area before they lie down. Chances are, you've noticed your dog do this too.
However, just because it's in their nature, it doesn't mean you have to sacrifice a lovely landscaped yard. By figuring out why your dog digs, you should be able to implement methods to hopefully stop the behaviour altogether.
If you wish to stop your dog from digging - which is unsurprising because who wants their yard to look a ramshackle mess, you need to identify the cause of the digging. There are a number of reasons why your dog digs - let's explore them now…
Is your dog alone a lot of the time, lacking playmates or many toys, under three years of age or a terrier, herding or sporting breed? If you've answered yes to one or more of these then maybe your dog is digging for entertainment.
Going for extra walks, teaching tricks, going to obedience classes or providing more challenging or interactive toys are some great methods to adopt to curb your dog's boredom related digging.
Does your dog dig in localised locations, concentrating on trees and/or shrubs? Then it appears your dog may be digging for prey.
The best thing you can do is to try and identify if there are animals coming into your yard and then look for humane ways to deter them.
Does your dog dig near buildings, water sources or in shaded areas, doesn't have their own outdoor shelter, or using holes as places to lie in - then these are indicators that your dog is digging to seek out protection.
To combat this, give your dog more access to the indoor areas of your home, particularly when you are experiencing extreme weather. In addition, give your dog a lovely dog house that is sturdy enough to offer adequate protection during hot, cold, wet and/or windy weather. And, always have plenty of fresh water available.
If you witness your dog brazenly digging in front of you or perhaps you don't often get to see your dog due to long work hours then it's possible your dog's digging is as a result of a lack of attention.
If this is the case, it's important to ignore this behaviour and only lavish them with attention when they are being a good dog to reinforce acceptable behaviour. You may also need to re-think your routine and try and fit in time every day to spend with your dog - taking them for walks, playing games and giving them plenty of attention.
If the holes your dog digs are near, along or even under the fence then it might be a signal that your dog is digging to escape. Crucially, you will need to figure out why your dog is trying to escape. Is it to reach something attractive, to try and go somewhere, or to avoid something?
Understanding and removing this incentive is how to avoid further digging. Once you've done this, you will also have to put in place better security measures so your pooch doesn't get away for real. Using chicken wire, large rocks or chain links buried along the fence are all good ways to help prevent any escaping from occurring but always be sure you don't leave sharp edges poking out.
If after all of this, your digging dog is still prevailing, then you could potentially consider creating a 'digging zone,' an acceptable area of your yard where it is ok for your pooch to dig till their heart's content. To do this, you will need to make the area look attractive by burying toys and giving plenty of praise when they do dig in this area.
A very important point to remember is to never punish your dog for unwanted digging. Rather than teaching your dog, punishment only increases the likeliness they will continue their digging.
Also, remember to avoid using fertilisers, which can be attractive to dogs, as this can be harmful to your pet's health.
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Some dogs (looking at you, labradors) seem to have a never ending appetite for food – yet other dogs can be exceptionally fussy, turning up their nose at the dinner they have been lovingly served by their owners.
It can be frustrating as well as worrying when a dog leaves their dinner bowl untouched. Many owners fret that such behaviour will cause their pet to fail to receive the nutrition they require. In most cases, it is very unlikely a dog will make themselves seriously ill with their discerning tastes. A healthy but picky dog will not starve themselves to death with their appetite or lack thereof.
If you are concerned, a discussion with your vet will let you rule out any underlying medical conditions that may influence your pet’s interest in food. Generally, fussy dogs show a long-term pattern of rejecting food not up to their standards. Any sudden change from a usual pattern of robust appetite however is a red alert that something is probably not quite right.
Once you’re sure you simply have a picky pooch on your hands there are a few methods you can try to set them on the path of eating what they have been given without complaint.
Some breeds are known to be pre-disposed to fussiness over others, such as poodles and Yorkshire terriers. In most cases picky eaters are created, not born. Dogs not provided with alternatives from their regular balanced and complete food are apt to eat what they are given. However, if they find when they turn their nose up at their dinner they receive a tasty piece of meat or another treat they quickly learn to hold out to get something better than what they are first given.
To retrain a fussy dog to accept ‘normal’ dog food, provide them with what you wish them to eat. If they reject it, pick it up and serve it again for their next meal. Resist the urge to give them something else if they are stubborn. Dogs don’t have to eat every day to survive – wolves do not have regular meal times in the wild. When they are hungry enough they will eat. Praise them wildly when they do bend and eat to enforce the behaviour you desire.
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We're not quite there yet, but fall is approaching. While it is a beautiful time of year and one that both you and your dog can enjoy, there's a fresh set of challenges and hazards for you to be aware of and protect your dog from.
1. Wrap up warm
Once fall has well and truly arrived, you will notice the days (and nights) become a great deal cooler, so while you start to put on your extra layers, the same should be done for your dog. If you don't already have one, you should consider purchasing a dog coat, especially if you have a smooth or single coated breed. Make sure it's water resistant, lined and is adjustable.
2. Snakes
Fall is when snakes get ready to hibernate and are also more likely to bite at this time of year. Educate yourself on what snakes are known to slither around your area, in particular poisonous varieties so you can stay away from their usual locations.
3. Mothballs
Did you know that mothballs are toxic to dogs if eaten? Be extra cautious when bringing out your winter woolies after being tucked away in your wardrobe for a long time.
4. Engine coolant
Fall is the time of year people are most likely to change their engine coolant. Look to see if the variety you use is ethylene glycol based as this is toxic to dogs. If you can, change brands to one that is propylene glycol based because if accidentally ingested it is less toxic. In any case, make sure any spillages are immediately cleaned up.
5. Mushrooms
Mushrooms are delicious to eat and are the perfect addition to any fall-time meal. However, while 99% of mushrooms are perfectly harmless, there is still 1% that are incredibly toxic, so make sure when you are out and about you keep your dog away from all mushrooms to be on the safe side. If your dog does eat a mushroom, contact your vet immediately.
6. Walking in the dark
The days are shorter and night fall draws in much sooner, so you'll probably find yourself taking your dog for a walk at dusk or in the evening darkness. If this is the case, make sure you are vigilant about your dog wearing proper ID, including tags with your contact information and that they are microchippped. For added safety, you should consider buying reflective collars or hi-vis clothing for yourself and your dog (just the hi-vis clothing for you!)
7. Rodenticides
Fall is also the time that many people choose to use rodenticides to deter rodents from coming into their home. If you are a pet owner, you must be extra vigilant because these are incredibly toxic to dogs - so if you are determined to use rodenticide, be careful to not put it in places where your dog can reach - or seek out safer alternatives.
8.Outdoor living
If your dog spends a lot, if not all of its time outdoors you will have to prepare them to face the impending cold temperatures. Make sure they have a warm and dry shelter to protect them from the elements. Be sure to include extra blankets and bedding. Consider including cedar shavings into the mix because they provide great insulation.
It's a common belief that during the cooler months outdoor dogs should be fed more food to keep them warm, however this is not often the case. If your dog is particularly active, then you could consider giving them a bit more at meal time, but no more than a 10% increase. This also doesn't mean you can go crazy with the snacks!
9. Grooming
Fall can be quite a wet and muddy time of year so make sure you are prepared for the extra washing and grooming you may be required to do. Have extra towels in your car to absorb excess water and you could even invest in a waterless shampoo, so you can keep your dog squeaky clean without the hassle of a bath.
10. Hearty foods
While we love fall because we can indulge in some of our favourite comfort foods, be aware that many of the things we love to eat can be toxic to dogs and make them sick. Chocolate is particularly dangerous so make sure none is in reach. As tempting as it may be don't get into the habit of sneaking your dog left overs from your dinner plate, because while they are not toxic they are not good for your dog's health and can cause intestinal upsets and diarrhea. If you want to give your pooch a seasonal treat, pumpkin is a good option to consider.
11. Fleas and ticks
It may be getting cooler, but that doesn't mean fleas and ticks are no longer a problem. Make sure you keep on top of your usual flea and tick treatments.
12. Conkers
Conkers are a true symbol that fall has arrived. They are so very dangerous for your dog and are highly toxic if they are chewed or eaten and can cause serious blockages internally. The same applies for daffodil or tulip bulbs, so gardeners beware!
13. Allergies
Like humans, the changing seasons can set allergies off for dogs. If your dog develops a skin rash, starts sneezing or has clear discharge coming from their nose, it's likely they are feeling the effects of an allergy. Take your dog to the vet so medicine such as antihistamines can be prescribed.
14. Decorations
They're bright, fun and festive but in the wrong paws can be quite dangerous. Be aware of leaving any decorative objects around that your dog could munch on - otherwise there will be a trip to the vet.
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