A dog may be man’s best friend, but it doesn’t always feel that way when you come home to find he’s destroyed your favorite pair of shoes or gnawed the arm of the sofa. There are several explanations for Fido’s fixation on chewing, however, ranging from separation anxiety to boredom, and identifying the underlying cause can help lead to a solution.   Dogs are most likely to chew your prized possessions as puppies, when they lose their baby teeth and turn to teething to alleviate pain as their adult teeth grow in. The good news for owners of gnaw-happy puppies is that most will outgrow this phase. Chewing comes naturally to dogs, however, and some will continue chomping away at your Italian loafers well into adulthood. Often, unwanted chewing is the product of pent-up energy that your pet needs to expel. You can prevent this boredom-relate behavior by making sure you give your pet plenty of exercise, playtime and mental stimulation. If, however, you’re sure your dog is getting enough exercise, you should pay attention to when he’s munching away at your personal possessions to determine the underlying cause. If Fido’s chewing mostly takes place while you’re away from home, it may be a sign of separation anxiety. If, on the other hand, his chewing starts suddenly, it could be a symptom of nutritional deficiencies or other gastrointestinal problems and you should seek veterinary help. Other causes could be hunger, attention-seeking or even fear.   If your puppy is chewing up the household, remember this is a phase that will likely pass and in the meantime, puppy-proof your home by moving objects you don’t want chewed out of reach. You should also take this time to establish yourself as the alpha in the relationship so you can better control unwanted behaviors as your dog grows. Remember, even after his puppy years, your dog’s natural instinct is to chew, so establishing a pack order will help lay boundaries for what is and isn’t okay to eat. If your adult dog has made a habit of snacking on your favorite slippers, focus on redirecting him to his own toys. These should be things like a Kong filled with food or rawhide bone, which won’t easily be confused with your own socks and shoes. Correct bad behavior immediately — by giving your dog a treat in return for dropping your work file, for example — because even a few minutes after the fact, he won’t remember what he did. You can also discourage chewing by “claiming” the object your dog is gnawing, using body language and assertion to show your dog that the object belongs to you. If all else fails, invest in bad-tasting sprays to deter chowing. With some effort and consistency, you should see your dog’s chewing behaviors redirected to his own toys. If you’re struggling, however, you can consider seeking professional help to rewire Fido’s fixation on mastication.

Like CPR or the Heimlich Maneuver, breaking up a dogfight is one of those skills you hope you never use. The fact is, however, not all dogs get along. The best way to deal with a dogfight is to watch for warning signs and stop aggressive behavior before it escalates. Sometimes, however, a full-fledged fight is already underway.   Your first instinct when a fight breaks out between dogs is to reach into the scuffle and grab your dog by the scruff of his neck. This maneuver, however, is more likely to leave you injured than stop the clash. Instead, if you and another person are breaking up a fight together, you should each grab a dog’s back legs and raise them up, just like you would lift a friend’s legs while doing the “wheelbarrow” when you were a kid. Without the use of his back legs, your dog will have no choice but stand on his front legs, precluding any efforts to continue fighting. Back both dogs away slowly, continuing to hold their legs in the air while you move in a backwards arc that will prevent your dog from reaching around to bite you. Once the two dogs are safely separated, try holding your pet securely until he is calm. It will help to turn him so he’s facing away from the infringing dog and distract him from his tiff.   Breaking up a dogfight up solo is significantly more challenging and dangerous, but you can proceed with caution if necessary. First, get a leash and then slowly approach the more aggressive dog until you’re close enough to loop the leash around his midsection. You’ll want to catch the dog just in front of his back legs and slip the free end of the leash through its looped handle so you can pull the loop taut. You can then pull the dog backward until you find something to fasten him to, such as a telephone pole or fence post. At this point, shift your focus to the second dog and grab him from behind using the technique described above. Again, pull him at least 20 feet away from his adversary and restrain him until the dogs are calm or help arrives. In both cases, remember to remain calm and avoid screaming or panicking, which can further agitate the dogs.   Breaking up a dogfight is dangerous and should only be a last resort. The best way to prevent injuries to both you and your pet is to know the warning signs of a fight and prevent the kerfuffle before it happens. If your dog is “smiling;” cowering and looking away; licking his lips; yawning; turning away and flattening his ears; flicking or tucking his tail; or turning his head away from the threatening dog while keeping his eyes on him, you can be sure a fight is about to break out and you should separate the two dogs immediately.

While dogs are capable of forming a range of barks, grunts and whimpers, their primary means of communication is body language. As with people, eye contact is one of the foremost forms of body language used by our canine companions. However, locking eyes means something very different in the canine world and people need to be aware that their friendly gaze may be considered a challenge or threat before meeting the eyes of an unfamiliar dog.   Humans view eye contact as a polite way to connect and show interest. Dogs, however, see the same action as a sign of dominance. Dogs rarely make prolonged eye contact with other dogs and a straight gaze is generally deemed threatening behavior. In most cases, one dog will break eye contact with another to avoid a potential fight. In the same way, a dog you’ve locked in a stare may show submissive behavior, such as looking away or rolling over onto his back. Some dogs, however, react aggressively to the perceived challenge, backing up and barking or even biting in response. Rather than unwittingly threaten a dog you’ve just met, then, greet him in a way that is comfortable for both parties. Approach the dog with your body slightly angled, so your shoulders aren’t squared towards him, and avert your eyes from a direct gaze. This non-threatening body language combined with a soft voice will let the dog know you are not a threat and should deflect any aggressive reactions from your new canine friend.   There are, of course, some settings in which eye contact doesn’t disturb dogs. Dogs will locks eyes with each other to initiate playful games such as chasing, for example. However, you’ll most often catch canines politely avoiding any prolonged stares, with one dog turning his head away from the other in an appeasing gesture. In the same way, your dog may defer dominance to you by avoiding your stare, but you can teach him that eye contact with people is positive and can lead to rewards, such as attention or treats. Ideally, eye contact training begins when your dog is a puppy, although adult dogs can learn to make non-threatening eye contact with humans, too. One easy way to teach your dog to meet your gaze is by simply putting him on a leash and either waiting for him to make eye contact on his own or prompting him with a treat a few inches from your face. Once he locks eyes with you, reward him with a cue, either verbal or with a clicker, and a treat. Over time, you can practice the same routine in different settings and with new people, teaching your pet to lock eyes with a range of people. If your dog displays aggression in response to eye contact, however, ask your veterinarian to refer you to a professional trainer for help.

Every dog owner’s seen his pet rush to the door only to chow down on the nearest patch of grass. While common knowledge holds that this is a quick fix for Fido to make himself sick, vets have largely debunked this myth. Dogs lack the enzymes needed to digest grass, too, meaning there is little nutritional value in their grazing. So the question remains: Why do dogs engage in this seemingly senseless behavior?   Unlike their feline counterparts, dogs are not full-fledged carnivores. For thousands of years, canines operated as opportunist omnivores, scavenging most anything that met their dietary needs. Modern dogs, however, no longer eat like their predecessors. While wild dogs often ate their prey in its entirety, including the stomach contents of plant-eating animals, our pets consume a very different diet. This may explain why some seek out grass as an alternative food source. Some theorize that grass helps improve digestion, especially in cases where Fido is lacking in fiber.   While eating plant matter may come naturally to dogs, this doesn’t explain why your canine companion sometimes throws up after eating grass. Some theorize that dogs intentionally graze on grass to make themselves sick when they’re not feeling well— to ease nausea or bloating, to clear a blocked digestive tract, or as a reaction to parasites or bacteria, for example. Evidence suggests the vast majority of foraging canines aren’t ill when they start eating grass, however, and veterinarians have found that less than a quarter of dogs that eat grass regularly throw up afterwards.   While some dogs seek out grass and other vegetables matter due to nutritional deficiencies or an upset stomach, vets believe many cases of “pica” — eating things that aren’t food, including grass — are simply a sign of boredom. If you suspect your dog’s pica is due to under-stimulation, ensure he’s getting enough exercise by engaging him in fun activities such as playing interactive games together or buying him a chew toy. If, on the other hand, you suspect your dog’s grazing is due to a nutritional deficiency, try switching to a higher quality dog food with more fiber. Some dogs, however, may continue eating grass simply because they like eat. Though experts agree that grazing isn’t harmful in and of itself, pesticides used on lawns can be toxic when ingested by your canine companion. And while some afternoon snacking on grass is normal, you should take your dog to the vet if he seems distressed or eats grass often in order to vomit, as these may be signs of underlying veterinary conditions.

We all love our dogs and, as we do with people, often show our affection by showering our precious pets with hugs. Few of us stop to observe our canine companions’ reactions to these displays of affection, but if we did, most would notice our dogs lip licking, yawning, pawing or displaying other nervous signs. The truth of the matter is, dogs don’t like to hug it out like people do, and your pet likely interprets a warm embrace as confusing, if not threatening, behavior.   The simple science behind why dogs don’t like hugs from their humans comes down to one thing: Dogs don’t hug each other. Dogs are pack animals by nature and when another dog places his paws on your dog’s neck or drapes his neck overtop your dog’s shoulder, this is considered a social threat. Your dog doesn’t recognize an embrace as affectionate behavior, then, but instead feels he is being pinned down. Dogs show their affection through other behaviors, such as licking, physical proximity and playing. So, while your canine companion may not return your warm embrace, he could be showing his adoration in a multitude of other ways.   Signs your dog is uncomfortable hugging it out include tensing up; putting his tail down or ears back; turning his head away; closing his eyes or opening them wide; raising a paw; or trying to move or duck away from the unwanted affection. Because hugs can be confusing for our canines, you dog might also display displacement behaviors, which include lip licking and yawning. If your pet shows any of these behaviors when being showered with affection, it is a clear sign he is uncomfortable and you should stop. Dogs may try to bite children who try to hug them, especially when the child is excited or screaming. And while some dogs may enjoy hugs from their trusted owners, an embrace from strangers can send shivers down their spines. The best way to know how your dog is feeling is to observe his behavior and reactions to an event.   Receiving hugs can be confusing for our canines. After all, why would their most trusted humans lock them in a threatening embrace? Instead, owners should shower their companions with affection in ways that translate well to both species. Like humans, dogs enjoy being near to those they love, so allow your pet to sit next to you on the couch or in your lap. Spend time engaged in activities you both enjoy, such as playing with a favorite toy, visiting the local park or gentle grooming. Shower your dog with touch, which will affirm your bond with him. If you receive a few slobbery kisses in return, you’ll know your dog feels the same way. P.S. THIS ARTICLE HAS NOT BEEN WRITTEN BY US. IT IS REPORTING SOME RECENT RESEARCH. WE HUG OUR DOGS EVERYDAY!!!:) - Petbucket Team!

As all pet owners know, when their pets are sleeping, they sleep hard. It might be a dog sleeping upside down on the couch or a cat stretched out at the most uncomfortable angle possible, just to ensure that its entire body is in the splash of sun on the floor. Waking up the pet isn’t easy when it’s in a warm spot, taking a nap.   But after watching your pet snooze much of the day, you may start wondering whether the animal is sleeping more than it should. Then if that same pet is spending much of the night prowling the house and keeping you awake, you may start to wonder if the pet is sleeping enough.   Finding the Right Amount of Sleep   It’s important that you understand whether your pet is receiving the right amount sleep. When a pet is not sleeping enough or is sleeping too much, it could indicate an animal that is suffering from some sort of illness or disorder. The amount of sleep that each pet needs will differ for numerous reasons.   ?Activity. A pet that doesn’t have much of an activity level may sleep more than average, in large part because it’s bored. To keep this pet healthy, you need to ensure the pet starts getting more exercise and sleeps less.   ?Age. An older pet will begin sleeping more than it did in its early adulthood, while a young animal will also sleep more than the average.   ?Instinct. If you have a pet that normally is a nocturnal type of animal, such as a cat, it may sleep more during the day, when you can see its activity level. But it may quietly be awake throughout the night, when you cannot see what it’s doing, meaning you may think it’s sleeping too much.   ?Job. Some pets are working animals, where they may volunteer at a hospital or work with humans as a police animal or a companion animal. The more the animal works, the more it will mimic the sleep patterns of the human with which it works.   ?Predator. Animals that are natural predators, such as dogs and cats, will tend to sleep more. Those that aren’t natural predators, such as horses or rabbits, will tend to sleep less. Figuring Out an Average   Because of the reasons listed above, discerning the amount of sleep each type of animal needs is a bit of a challenge. Additionally, an animal in captivity will sleep a bit differently than an animal in the wild, skewing the average.   ?Least sleep. Pets that need the least amount of sleep include horses at about 3-4 hours per day and cows at 4-5 hours per day. A fish doesn’t need much sleep either, but studying sleep patterns of fish is extremely difficult.   ?Similar sleep to humans. A human requires about 8 hours of sleep, which is similar to rabbits (8-9 hours) and primates (9-10 hours).   ?Most sleep. A dog will require 12-14 hours of sleep per day, while a cat may sleep 14-16 hours of sleep daily. Rodents and parrots also sleep about 12-14 hours per day. If you have a reptile or a turtle as a pet, you may notice it sleeps much of the day during the winter, which is a time when it would be hibernating in the wild.   While it’s important to keep an eye on the amount of sleep your pet is receiving, it might be even more important to pay attention to a change in the animal’s sleep pattern. If an animal has a sudden change in sleep habits that cannot be explained by an environmental change or by an instinct to hibernate in the winter, it could indicate a potential illness, so be aware of your dog’s health. For example, arthritis in dogs can be heavily disruptive to sleep patterns. An altered sleep schedule could be an early indicator of a problem such as this. Check with your veterinarian if you are concerned about any change in sleep patterns!

If your dog spends any time outdoors or socializing with other animals, he has the potential to attract fleas and ticks. These biting pests are more than just major nuisances for your pet, however. They also raise serious concerns from flea infestations that spread quickly to an entire household to allergic reactions and diseases, such as Lyme and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. When looking for answers to their flea and tick problems, owners encounter a dizzying array of topical liquids, chewable pills, dips, sprays and more. One age-old option, the flea collar, has fallen slightly out of fashion, but these cheap and simple products might be worth revisiting for some pet owners.   Flea and tick collars serve two basic functions: Older collars were designed to repel pests by emitting a gas, while many newer designs actually treat existing infestations with a medication that seeps into a dog’s skin or spreads with the skin’s natural oils, similar to how most topical treatments work. Some collars serve only one purpose, while others both prevent and treat infestations, so it’s important to read the product description carefully before buying a collar. Traditional collars have evolved over time and still hold some advantages over spot-on treatments. Collars can last up to eight months, for example, while spot-ons are generally effective for 30 days. Flea collars tend to cost less than other flea and tick treatments— though buyers beware, the cheapest collars often sacrifice effectiveness for price.   The collar-versus-topical (or chewable) debate often comes down to specific circumstances. If your dogs swims several times a week in the summer or gets frequent baths, choosing a waterproof product is important to ensuring he is protected from fleas and ticks. You should remove his flea collar ahead of time to ensure the medication remains effective, while you cannot “remove” a topical liquid before it has had time to absorb. Some instances when flea and tick collars can prove especially useful include times when pest concerns are higher than normal. If you know your dog will be taking a romp through tall grass, for example, you can double up on tick protection by putting a medicated collar on during the walk and removing it afterward, even if your dog is already being treated with a topical medicine. Always consult your veterinarian before choosing a flea and tick treatment and monitor your pet for any irritation or other side effects when switching to a new product.

We all sneeze from time to time when dust, dander or other irritants tickle our nose and throats. It turns out dogs sneeze, too, for many of the same reasons. A more arresting reaction, however, is the reverse sneeze: the reflex by which dogs rapidly draw air into their bodies to remove irritants from the area behind their nostrils. Many owners mistake these loud, wheezing episodes for asthma attacks, causing panic and emergency trips to the vet. In reality, however, the startling sounds are a relatively normal part of life for some dogs, just like sneezing is for humans. Your canine companion may look distressed when the reverse sneeze strikes, but in truth, it is harmless behavior in most dogs and leaves no lasting ill effects.   Reverse sneezing typically occurs when something irritates a dog’s soft palate (the fleshy bit at the back of the roof of his mouth) or throat. Whereas air is forced out through the nose in a regular sneeze, air is pulled rapidly in through the nose during a reverse sneeze. This causes a dog to make a loud snorting or gasping sound as he extends his neck and gulps in air.  It is a disturbing display, but veterinarians agree that reverse sneezing is actually fairly common in dogs. Smalls dogs are more prone to it due to their smaller air passageways, as are breeds such as pugs and bulldogs with elongated soft palates. Episodes can last anywhere between a few seconds up to a few minutes and may appear in dogs at any stage of life.   Whether it’s allergies or mites, treating the underlying cause is the best way to prevent reverse sneezing. Some dogs simply have an attack when they’re excited, while other may reverse sneeze due to perfumes or household chemicals; exercise intolerance; pulling on a leash; or even eating and drinking. If an episode doesn’t end quickly, you can try helping your wheezing companion in several ways. Gently massage his throat to stop the spasm; cover his nostrils to make him swallow and clear the irritant from his throat; or press his tongue down to aid breathing. Different techniques work for different pets, so you will have to experiment gently to find out the best way to help your pooch.   Reverse sneezing doesn’t usually require treatment, but if it becomes a chronic problem, you should seek your veterinarian’s advice. As a general rule, if your dog is reverse sneezing more often than the average human sneezes, you should seek help. If allergies are the root of the problem, for example, your vet may prescribe antihistamines. He can also rule out other causes such as respiratory tract infections or foreign bodies that could be blocking your dog’s airway. Asthma, on the other hand, is vastly less common in dogs and is typically accompanied by a chronic cough. Though rare, dogs with asthma likely struggle more with exercising and fatigue and the condition is almost always caused by an allergic reaction to something in the environment. 

Most people have heard of heartworms, but fewer know that dogs are at serious risk of contracting heartworm disease in any area where mosquitos are present. Insidious parasites that nest in dogs’ hearts, lungs and surrounding blood vessels, heartworms are easy to prevent, but difficult and costly to cure. For this reason, pet owners should protect their dogs against heartworms in any area where mosquito bites are even a remote possibility.   Dogs only contract heartworms in one way: through the bite of an infected mosquito. This is because adult heartworms thriving in an infected animal produce baby worms, known as microfilaria, which circulate throughout the bloodstream. When a mosquito bites an infected pet, it picks up the microfilaria, which develop into larvae within the mosquito. When the infected mosquito bites another animal a few weeks later, it passes on these larvae, which mature into adult heartworms and continue the lifecycle. It only takes one bite and, about six months later, the larvae mature into adult heartworms within a dog. Pets with untreated heartworms may harbor several hundred of the parasites, which leave lasting damage to the heart, lungs, arteries and other organs even after they’ve been treated.   The good news is that heartworms cannot be passed from dogs to humans or other pets. The parasite is only transmitted through mosquitos, and typically affects only dogs, cats and several other mammals. The bad news is that, once infected, a dog needs serious and costly treatments to rid him of the parasites. Symptoms of heartworm disease may take some time to appear, but as the worms begin crowding a dog’s heart and lungs, he may develop a cough, intolerance to exercise, trouble breathing and fatigue. Left untreated, most heartworm infestations are fatal.   Fortunately, heartworm disease is easily preventable. Chewable pills, monthly topicals and six-month injections all exist to arm your pet against mosquito bites and heartworms. A year’s supply of heartworm medication ranges in cost from around $35 to $80, depending on your dog’s weight— many times less than the cost of curing an infected pet. While you may be tempted to stop treatment during the colder months of the year, when mosquitos are inactive, the American Heartworm Society recommends using year-round heartworm prevention. Owners may forget a monthly dose, which is typically a non-event if your dog is being treated consistently, and many heartworm pills also treat for other parasites such as roundworms, whipworms and tapeworms that are present year-round.   In the case that your dog does become infected with heartworms or you purchase a heartworm-positive pet, the disease is treatable. An injectable product called Immiticide is used to wipe out adult heartworms in the blood vessels. However, as the worms die, they break down and can block a dog’s pulmonary vessels, making it crucial for dogs to keep quiet for several months during and after treatment. Remember, even if your dog has survived heartworms once, the parasite can come back, making heartworm prevention a no-brainer for any owner.

Everyone’s heard the phrase “dog breath,” but most owners don’t realize that bad breath can be a sign of more serious periodontal problems, such as plaque, gum disease and tooth loss. The idea of regular dental care is new to many pet owners, but keeping your canine’s chompers clean not only improves his quality of life, but also longevity. Think of it this way: You wouldn’t go years without cleaning your teeth, and neither should your dog. Veterinarians report that dental problems are the most commonly diagnosed health issue in dogs over three years old. Ignoring buildup of tartar and plaque or an off-colored tooth can lead to serious health problems, including gum disease and life-threatening infections. To ensure your dog’s mouth remains in good health, check regularly for signs of oral disease. These can include bad breath, red or swollen gums, and a build-up of tartar around the teeth. Keep an eye out if your pup is chewing on one side of his mouth or not eating at all, as these are red flags that there’s something seriously wrong. Other signs of an oral infection include your dog compulsively chewing, pawing at his nose and mouth, or licking his nose. If you notice fractured or off-colored teeth or bumps on your dog’s gums, you should consult your veterinarian immediately.   With all of these scary symptoms, you’ll be happy to know you can help your dog live a better and longer life with a relatively simple mouth-cleaning routine. Ideally, you should clean your dog’s teeth daily, but giving his mouth some attention at least three times a week will help curb any problems. Use a soft toothbrush at a 45-degree angle, brushing in a gentle up-and-down motion. You can add canine toothpaste to the mix, but never use human toothpaste on your dog since he must be able to swallow any products. In addition, be sure to take your companion to the vet for an official dental exam at least once a year.   For owners who didn’t start dental care with their puppy or purchased an adult dog, tooth cleaning can be a daunting process. However, with some time and patience, your dog should come around to having his teeth cleaned. Start by brushing the outside of your pet’s cheek with your finger and lifting his lip, gradually moving inside your pet’s mouth and adding canine toothpaste to the mix. Be sure to lavish your dog with praises to reinforce that tooth brushing is a positive experience. If your dog proves especially difficult when it comes to oral hygiene, fear not: There are a number of chew toys designed just to fight tartar and clean the gums. Your dog’s diet also plays a big role in his oral hygiene, so bear in mind that dry kibbles and biscuits help remove plaque, while canned food contributes to dental problems.