Most people have heard of heartworms, but fewer know that dogs are at serious risk of contracting heartworm disease in any area where mosquitos are present. Insidious parasites that nest in dogs’ hearts, lungs and surrounding blood vessels, heartworms are easy to prevent, but difficult and costly to cure. For this reason, pet owners should protect their dogs against heartworms in any area where mosquito bites are even a remote possibility.   Dogs only contract heartworms in one way: through the bite of an infected mosquito. This is because adult heartworms thriving in an infected animal produce baby worms, known as microfilaria, which circulate throughout the bloodstream. When a mosquito bites an infected pet, it picks up the microfilaria, which develop into larvae within the mosquito. When the infected mosquito bites another animal a few weeks later, it passes on these larvae, which mature into adult heartworms and continue the lifecycle. It only takes one bite and, about six months later, the larvae mature into adult heartworms within a dog. Pets with untreated heartworms may harbor several hundred of the parasites, which leave lasting damage to the heart, lungs, arteries and other organs even after they’ve been treated.   The good news is that heartworms cannot be passed from dogs to humans or other pets. The parasite is only transmitted through mosquitos, and typically affects only dogs, cats and several other mammals. The bad news is that, once infected, a dog needs serious and costly treatments to rid him of the parasites. Symptoms of heartworm disease may take some time to appear, but as the worms begin crowding a dog’s heart and lungs, he may develop a cough, intolerance to exercise, trouble breathing and fatigue. Left untreated, most heartworm infestations are fatal.   Fortunately, heartworm disease is easily preventable. Chewable pills, monthly topicals and six-month injections all exist to arm your pet against mosquito bites and heartworms. A year’s supply of heartworm medication ranges in cost from around $35 to $80, depending on your dog’s weight— many times less than the cost of curing an infected pet. While you may be tempted to stop treatment during the colder months of the year, when mosquitos are inactive, the American Heartworm Society recommends using year-round heartworm prevention. Owners may forget a monthly dose, which is typically a non-event if your dog is being treated consistently, and many heartworm pills also treat for other parasites such as roundworms, whipworms and tapeworms that are present year-round.   In the case that your dog does become infected with heartworms or you purchase a heartworm-positive pet, the disease is treatable. An injectable product called Immiticide is used to wipe out adult heartworms in the blood vessels. However, as the worms die, they break down and can block a dog’s pulmonary vessels, making it crucial for dogs to keep quiet for several months during and after treatment. Remember, even if your dog has survived heartworms once, the parasite can come back, making heartworm prevention a no-brainer for any owner.

If you’re frustrated with a cat that has taken to thinking outside the box when it comes to kitty litter, you’re not alone: At least 10 percent of cats develop an elimination problem at one point during their lives. Once your cat cultivates an aversion to his litter box, it can become a chronic issue. What’s worse, his new favorite place to do his business could be your living room carpet or prized sofa. If kitty’s gone AWOL when it comes to his litter box, the first step toward solving the problem is finding its underlying cause.   If your cat is uncomfortable with his litter box or can’t easily get in, chances are he’ll avoid it altogether. Make sure his litter box is cleaned thoroughly once a day and that the litter isn’t too deep— just one or two inches is enough. Cats prefer larger boxes, so make sure your feline friend isn’t feeling cramped by choosing a litter box roughly one-and-a-half times the size of the cat using it. Your cat may avoid his litter box because he doesn’t like the type of litter you’re using, so try switching to a clumping, unscented litter or the litter your cat used as a kitten. Most cats are averse to covered boxes and kittens and older cats with arthritis find it hard to climb in and out of high-sided boxes, so keep these factors in mind when choosing a litter box.   Another common issue is the litter box-to-cats ratio in multi-cat households. Be sure to provide one box per cat, plus one extra. Location can also cause major litter box woes, as cats that can’t easily get into their boxes or don’t feel safe there might forgo them altogether. Make sure the box is in in a quiet, but not cornered location so kitty can see other pets or people approaching and plan an easy escape route. If your cat has an aversion to a self-cleaning litter box, trying a more traditional box might do the trick.   The best way to curb litter box problems is to prevent them from the outset, so make your cat’s litter box as appealing as possible by following the guidelines above. If your cat’s already eliminating outside his box, try placing the litter box in his preferred spot and slowly inching it back to the desired location over time. You can also deter your cat from using inappropriate elimination surfaces by making them less appealing— by placing your cat’s food bowl there or using upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided tape in the area where your cat has eliminated in the past, for example. Pay attention to your cat’s behavior so you can catch any problems before they become bad habits. If in doubt, seek your veterinarian’s guidance, as some litter box issues can be caused by serious medical conditions such as urinary tract infections, kidney stones or feline interstitial cystitis.

Many cat owners have experienced the frustration of coming home to a seemingly endless barrage of meowing. Certain breeds, such as Siamese and Bengal cats, have a reputation for unnecessary “talking,” but the truth is any cat can take to excessive meowing. If kitty’s communicating too much, try to figure out the cause first. Once you know why he’s wailing, you can appropriately address the problem.   Cats call out for any number of reasons, and these reasons change as kittens mature into full-grown felines. Youngsters will meow for their mother’s attention when they’re hungry, uncomfortable or scared. But as your cat grows, he uses his voice to communicate with you, his owner. He might meow to greet you when you come home, for example. Your cat could also call out because of stress, which can happen after introducing a new pet, moving house, or any other major life event. Older cats tend to meow more when they feel confused or disoriented. Sometimes, your feline friend wants to communicate basic needs, such as an illness or hunger. Or, your cat may simply be seeking attention.   Don’t just ignore persistent meowing without ensuring there isn’t a problem first. Older cats can bump into objects in the dark, a problem easily solved by leaving a light on at night, and persistent meowing can be a cry for help when your pet is sick, trapped in a room, or out of water. If your cat is stressed, try to determine the source and help him adjust to the change, or offer extra attention if you cannot change the situation. However, if your cat is meowing for more self-satisfying reasons, the most important step in solving the problem is to not give in: Don’t reward kitty with a treat if he cries every time you walk past the food bowl, for example. Only give him attention when he’s quiet, reinforcing positive behavior— but still be sure to spend time with your cat daily. Remember, loneliness can be a catalyst for caterwauling, so seek ways to improve your cat’s life. If you can’t give him enough attention, consider hiring a pet sitter or engaging him with alternative activities, such as placing a bird feeder outside the window for your cat to watch. Don’t punish your cat by shouting, throwing objects or spraying water, as this rarely works to quiet him, but does create a distrustful pet. Continue rewarding quiet behavior and ignoring meowing, and eventually your cat should catch on and trade yowling for purring. If your cat seems to cry for no reason, consider a trip to the vet, as pets are often masters of hiding illnesses.

Declawing cats is a hot-button issue among veterinarians and pet owners alike. Onychectomy, as the procedure is formally known, is regarded as a serious surgery and involves not just amputating a cat’s claws, but also the small bone that comes before his first knuckles. This isn’t just a painful process for your pet, but removes your cat’s first line of defence, can alter his sense of balance, and may even leave him with long term complications like lameness, behavioural problems, and chronic pain. The Humane Society and ASPCA suggest declawing only as a last resort after all other avenues to curb scratching have been explored. Some countries go even further, banning declawing outright as a form of animal cruelty. With cats’ claws the issue of such hot debate, the question remains: Why does kitty scratch your prized possessions in the first place? Clawing is a cat’s way of marking his territory. Both through the visual markings and scent left behind from glands on his paws, your cat stakes out his space in the house with his claws. Clawing can also serve as a form of exercise, stretching and working your cat’s front legs and spine, keeping him in prime condition for hunting. Finally, scratching is a natural action that loosens and removes the outer shell of the claw, revealing a sharp, healthy surface underneath.   Scratching is in your cat’s nature, but there are several alternatives to declawing if your cat is ruining your furniture or trim. You can trim the tips of kitty’s claws once or twice a month to make them less destructive— remember, though, only exclusively indoor cats should have their nails trimmed, as outdoor wanderers may need their claws to defend themselves and for climbing. Even with shorter nails, your cat can continue to claw, so it’s important to provide him with an acceptable alternative. Look for objects with similar textures to the surface your cat is currently clawing and place them at a comparable height. A range of commercially available scratching posts exists, or you can fashion a DIY scratch pad by attaching a square of loop-weave carpet to the wall. Remember, cats won’t use posts that don’t provide enough resistance and new scratching posts should be introduced in areas of the house that your cat frequents to encourage use. Try to provide one scratching post for each cat in the household. Others methods to deter clawing include cat adversives, such as aluminium foil or double-sided tape, placed over scratch-prone areas; trying Soft Paws, small latex caps that you or your veterinarian can glue onto the tips of your cat’s claws; or using Feliway, a product that mimics cat pheromones to help deter your cat from scratching to mark his territory.   Clearly, there are many avenues to explore before taking the plunge into declawing your cat.  As with any surgery, declawing comes with inherent risks such as pain, infection, and nerve trauma and should only be considered as a last resort.

Everyone’s heard the phrase “dog breath,” but most owners don’t realize that bad breath can be a sign of more serious periodontal problems, such as plaque, gum disease and tooth loss. The idea of regular dental care is new to many pet owners, but keeping your canine’s chompers clean not only improves his quality of life, but also longevity. Think of it this way: You wouldn’t go years without cleaning your teeth, and neither should your dog. Veterinarians report that dental problems are the most commonly diagnosed health issue in dogs over three years old. Ignoring buildup of tartar and plaque or an off-colored tooth can lead to serious health problems, including gum disease and life-threatening infections. To ensure your dog’s mouth remains in good health, check regularly for signs of oral disease. These can include bad breath, red or swollen gums, and a build-up of tartar around the teeth. Keep an eye out if your pup is chewing on one side of his mouth or not eating at all, as these are red flags that there’s something seriously wrong. Other signs of an oral infection include your dog compulsively chewing, pawing at his nose and mouth, or licking his nose. If you notice fractured or off-colored teeth or bumps on your dog’s gums, you should consult your veterinarian immediately.   With all of these scary symptoms, you’ll be happy to know you can help your dog live a better and longer life with a relatively simple mouth-cleaning routine. Ideally, you should clean your dog’s teeth daily, but giving his mouth some attention at least three times a week will help curb any problems. Use a soft toothbrush at a 45-degree angle, brushing in a gentle up-and-down motion. You can add canine toothpaste to the mix, but never use human toothpaste on your dog since he must be able to swallow any products. In addition, be sure to take your companion to the vet for an official dental exam at least once a year.   For owners who didn’t start dental care with their puppy or purchased an adult dog, tooth cleaning can be a daunting process. However, with some time and patience, your dog should come around to having his teeth cleaned. Start by brushing the outside of your pet’s cheek with your finger and lifting his lip, gradually moving inside your pet’s mouth and adding canine toothpaste to the mix. Be sure to lavish your dog with praises to reinforce that tooth brushing is a positive experience. If your dog proves especially difficult when it comes to oral hygiene, fear not: There are a number of chew toys designed just to fight tartar and clean the gums. Your dog’s diet also plays a big role in his oral hygiene, so bear in mind that dry kibbles and biscuits help remove plaque, while canned food contributes to dental problems.

Your kitchen pantry may contain several natural herbs and spices that can improve your dog's health. Rather than spending hundreds of dollars on expensive supplements, you can improve your dog's health with these three simple ingredients you probably already have.   One of the best natural supplements for your dog is turmeric. This rhizome is grown native to India and is an important part of Ayurvedic medicine.  For centuries, turmeric has been used as an anti-inflammatory medicine, helping with inflammation due to both acute and chronic injuries and diseases. Turmeric has also been proven scientifically to work as an antiviral, antibacterial and detoxifying supplement. Turmeric can be used to alleviate cancer, arthritis, heart disease and liver disease. The general turmeric dosage for pets is ¼ teaspoon per day per 10 pounds of body weight.   Ginger has long been known to ease upset stomachs and motion sickness in humans. This common pantry spice can also help your pet's nausea and digestive upset. Ginger is in the same family as turmeric, so helps some of the same conditions as turmeric, including arthritis, cancer and other inflammatory conditions.  The recommended dosage for pets is 100mg of ground ginger per 25 pounds of body weight.   Like turmeric, cinnamon is a common Ayurvedic medicine.  Cinnamon is primarily used for digestive issues, such as gas, diarrhea and upset stomach. Cinnamon can also be a great supplement for dogs with diabetes, as it helps regulate blood sugar and insulin levels. Dogs with arthritis or other chronic conditions may also benefit from cinnamon, as it works as an anti-inflammatory medication.  It's important to use Ceylon cinnamon, which is considered to be "true cinnamon." The general dosage for pets is a pinch to 1/8 of a teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight per day.   There is no doubt that many excellent supplements for dogs are on the market today. Many of the most natural supplements utilize common items that you may already have in your pantry. By utilizing your own spices to improve your dog's health, you can be sure you are using fresh, organic and safe spices to help your dog live a healthier life.

Obedience training can prove frustrating and overwhelming. When your puppy refuses to relieve himself outside or Lassie keeps snatching food off the table, it can be easy to give up and view the whole ordeal as hopeless. Rather than blowing a gasket and losing control of the situation, rely on a few simple rules to ensure you see obedience training through to the end.   The key to training any dog is to always remain calm. No matter how dire the situation, if you react in a collected manner, your dog will respond leagues better than when you're frazzled and shouting. Aggravation will only serve to further excite the dog, resulting in an escalation of their undesired behavior.   Cover the basics and work up from the foundations. Before you try anything else, train your dog important commands such as sit, down, stay, come, heel, off, and leave it. These seven commands cover a wide range of scenarios, from ankle biting, to food stealing, to barking at the doorbell, and equip you with the basic tools to control your dog. Coupled with a calm attitude, your dog will listen to whatever you have to say.   Positive reinforcement will teach your dog that good behavior is a happy thing correlated with love and tasty food. Praise and affection delivered at the appropriate time -- when the dog is relaxed, paying attention to you, or following commands -- will encourage continued obedience. Treats can be used to associate tricks, grooming, walks, and relaxation with feeling good and being happy. Food can also be used to distract dogs from bad behavior, such as leash pulling and barking, by preoccupying them with something much more worthwhile.   When disciplining your dog, only ever issue corrections when you catch him in the act. If you scold a dog an hour after he's soiled the rug, he may look guilty, but he'll have no idea why he's being punished. Calling a dog and proceeding to reprimand him will only cause confusion, as from the dog's point of view, he's being punished for coming over. Never shout at or strike your dog. Such actions may traumatize the animal, incite aggression, or damage the partnership bond between owner and pet. Short leash jerks and other physical corrections should only be used when absolutely necessary, such as cases of aggression or biting, as positive reinforcement can achieve the same results in a more pleasant way for the dog.   Training dogs can be vexing, especially when one step forward feels like two steps back. But so long as you remain calm and upbeat, your dog will respond in kind. Results may not be instantaneous, and some dogs are more problematic than others, but a few simple rules will ensure any dog can become obedient given time, hard work, and lots of love.

Cats may be the most popular kind of pet in the world, beloved for their companionship and antics. Unfortunately, a common issue that arises from owning a cat is destruction of furniture. A cat's claws need maintenance, and they do this by scratching. In the wild, feline ancestors would use tree bark for this. In the home, they need replacements of some kind, and furniture often comes under attack as a result. There are ways to prevent or change this behavior, and here are some of the best ideas for protecting your furniture from a cat's claws.   Ensure An Alternative   As mentioned, a cat needs to maintain her claws. They do not scratch out of malice but out of necessity. Though they are not 'sharpening' their claws, they do need to shed the nail sheaths. Such activities also help mark territory, as they deposit scents on the object. Scratching is also good exercise, helping the cat to stretch almost like a yoga routine.   A cat does not have the choice to not scratch. This means that you have to provide alternatives to the furniture. The scratching post is the obvious one, but scratching beds are great as well. They can also enjoy thick ropes, tree branches, and similar things. It is best to provide many pieces of cat furniture, especially if you have several cats. You should still provide such scratching furniture if the cats may go outside.   Help the Cat Understand the Alternative   Cats are famous as creatures of habit and these habits can be hard to break. Some will instinctively use the provided scratching posts. Some will need to be shown where it is and what it is for. It can help to place the new scratching post near the furniture you wish to protect. You may also show the cat what it is for by taking her forepaws and gently rubbing them against the post -- she will often get the idea. You can then move the post by degrees to the desired location.   Encourage your cat with praise, petting, and treats when they use the proper places to scratch. Cats are stubborn creatures who respond better to the carrot than the stick. Rewarding them for good behavior is effective. Punishment for bad behavior rarely works.   Discouraging Scratching   One of the quirks of cat behavior is that they understand the world in a different way from humans. A cat will identify that a person has sprayed them with water, for example. But they will not learn that the behavior is bad. Instead they will learn to do it when they won't get caught. On the other hand, if a cat thinks she has been punished by 'the universe' in general, she is more likely to stop. This makes it more effective to set up a trap of sorts.   You can still discourage the behavior somewhat by squirting a cat with a water gun or a gardening spray can. However, it is more effective to use a motion-sensing air can and place it next to the object you wish to protect. These are available for a low price. When the cat approaches, the sensor will see them, and a harmless puff of air will be blasted at them. This will cause great surprise and usually a hasty retreat. And because it is something that 'just happens', the cat should soon learn not to attempt to scratch.   Armoring the Furniture   You can protect your furniture in a couple of other ways as well. A plastic cover of some sort will prevent damage while you help your cat adjust. You can also apply double-sided sticky tape to the furniture. Most cats strongly dislike the sensation of stickiness on their paws. This will lead them to seek other places to scratch, which you should have provided for them.   Claw Caps   If your cat proves determined to scratch the furniture no matter what, there is another option. Claw caps are small plastic covers which are affixed to the pet's front claws with the use of special glue. Usually you would trim the cat's nails (always be careful to avoid the quick of the nail!) before applying them. These soft objects ensure she cannot harm the furniture or indeed your skin but do no harm to her. The claw caps will fall off in time so be vigilant for when they need replacement.   Avoid Declawing   Declawing cats used to be a popular way to protect furniture, but it has begun to fall out of favor in recent years. This is because it is now often regarded as a cruel and mutilating procedure. The operation is the same as removing a human's fingers from the middle knuckles. It does far more than just taking away their claws. It can lead to psychological distress, an inability to defend herself against other animals, and chronic pain. Declawing leads to much more misbehavior than it prevents. In many countries the procedure is banned except where a vet deems it necessary for the cat's own health.   No matter how bad your cat's scratching might be, they should never be subjected to this procedure. There are always alternative ways to change their behavior.  So no matter how bad your cat's scratching might be, they should never be subjected to this procedure. There are always alternative ways to change their behavior.   Remember that your cats are unique, living beings. They have their own mannerisms and habits, and changing these takes time and effort. Use gentility and encouragement to help them learn what you do want them to do instead of trying to teach them what you do not want them to do. You can also use various things like spray bottles and claw covers to help protect your furniture while you and your pet work on their furniture scratching. As long as you are patient and caring, your cat will soon come to learn what to use for their claw care.

Many dog owners are unable to resist those pleading eyes at dinnertime and give in by feeding their pooch scraps of human food. What you may not realize is, some foods that are perfectly healthy for humans could be dangerous or even toxic to your dog. Here are some foods your dog should never eat:   Apple Cores   The casing around apple seeds contains a chemical that releases poisonous cyanide when eaten. Symptoms of cyanide poisoning include dizziness, breathing problems, hyperventilation, unconscious collapse, seizures, shock, and coma.   Always remove the core and seeds of apples before feeding them to your dog. Incidentally, the seed casings in peaches, pears, and apricots also contain the same poisonous compounds as apple cores.   Avocado   Avocados contain persin, which can cause diarrhea, vomiting, breathing difficulties, fluid in the lungs, and heart congestion in dogs.   Caffeine   Coffee contains a stimulant known as methylated xanthine, which stimulates your dog's nervous system and causes vomiting and heart palpitations.   Chocolate   Chocolate can be toxic to dogs, as it contains theobromine and theophylline. Some brands may also contain caffeine. Signs of toxicity include vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, muscle tremors, abdominal pains, irregular heartbeat, elevated body temperature, seizures, and damage to your dog's heart and nervous system.   Cooked Bones   Cooked bones can easily splinter as your dog chews on them. Splintered bones can lacerate the mouth, gums, throat, esophagus, stomach, or intestines, all requiring expensive veterinary treatment.   Garlic   Garlic is part of the onion family, so it contains toxins that are dangerous to dogs. Garlic can cause anemia and damage to red blood cells in dogs. However, some vets may tell you that small amounts are OK to give your dog. It's best to discuss this with your vet if you're unsure.   Grapes and Raisins   Grapes contain a specific toxin that can cause severe liver damage and kidney failure in dogs. Other symptoms of toxicity include vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, and lack of appetite.   Hops   One of the ingredients used to make beer can be toxic to your dog. Signs of hops poisoning include increased heart rate, fever, seizures, and death.   Macadamia Nuts   Macadamia nuts contain a toxin that can cause damage to your dog's digestive system, nervous system, and muscle systems. Other signs of macadamia toxicity include weakness, tremors, and swollen limbs.   Onions   Onions are extremely poisonous for dogs, no matter what form they're in. Raw, cooked, dried, or powdered onion all contain disulfides and sulfoxides, both of which can cause anemia and damage red blood cells.   Always check the label on any foods you intend to feed your dog, such as baby food, to ensure it doesn't contain onion powder or other forms of onion.   Stone Fruits   Any fruit containing a stone or large pit can be highly dangerous to your dog. Fruit such as apricots, plums, cherries, peaches, or nectarines can all cause gastrointestinal blockages or bowel obstructions if the pit is swallowed by your dog.   Xylitol   Xylitol is an artificial sugar substitute often used in candies, baked goods, pre-packaged weight loss foods, chewing gum labeled as 'sugar-free', and some other foods. While it seems to be safe for people, even small quantities of xylitol can be extremely harmful to your dog. Signs of xylitol poisoning in dogs include weakness, loss of coordination, trembling, seizures, hypoglycemia, liver failure, and death.     Use Caution: Peanut Butter   In most cases, peanut butter is completely fine to give to your dog. Peanut butter is ideal for disguising tablets or for creating homemade tasty dog treats. However, some brands use artificial sweetener, so it's important to check the label and be sure the brand you buy is xylitol-free.   Use Caution: Raw Fish   Some types of raw fish can be infected with neorickettsia helminthoeca. The bacteria can sometimes be found in raw salmon or trout, and can be fatal if not treated properly. However, cooked salmon and trout are safe.   Use Caution: Dairy Foods   Dogs are lactose intolerant. They simply don't have the enzymes required to break down lactose found in dairy products.  Feeding your dog milk and cheese won't cause life-threatening illnesses, but it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and other gastrointestinal problems.   Use Caution: Human Snacks   Flavored potato chips can contain garlic or onion powder. Likewise, some cookies could contain raisins, chocolate, caffeine, or macadamia nuts. Keep your human snacks to yourself and get your dog his own doggy treats instead of sharing yours.   Keep this list of foods in mind when you're feeding your dog. Even if you're making homemade dog food, read through the recipe carefully and make your decisions about which ingredients to use accordingly. If you're concerned about something your dog has eaten, call your vet and discuss the situation promptly.

Taking your dog for a walk can be a productive, enjoyable activity until you meet another dog on the walking path. Even if the other dog is accompanied by a handler, you often won't know a nice dog from a mean one until it's too late. Your own dog can be unpredictable, too, when confronted with another canine. So how can you safely and smoothly handle encounters with other dogs on the pathways? Here are eight tips that'll help:   .   Train your dog for walking in public. Before you make a routine of walking your dog on public sidewalks and walking paths, make sure he is adequately leash trained. A dog that's comfortable walking on a leash, knows how to heel, and obeys your commands will be much easier to handle than a dog that's loose, weaving back and forth, or pulling you on the walk--especially when an unfamiliar dog pops onto the scene.  .   Be prepared when you leave the house. Certain supplies can help you avert trouble should you encounter another dog while out walking. Small treats and a whistle or other attention diverter are two items worth carrying in a pocket or waist pouch; either will allow you to redirect your dog's attention to you. If your dog is an aggressive puller, make sure he is fitted with a collar that gives you better control, like a martingale, harness, or pinch collar.  .   Walk in areas with options for diverting. Sometimes it's easier to avoid encounters with other dogs than to face uncertainty. If possible, choose walking paths or sidewalks that allow you to change your route should you need to. Walking paths that veer in several directions or sidewalks that have a quiet street to cross between them are good options. When stuck, you can always turn around and head back in the direction you came. .   Assess encounters with dogs in advance. During your walk, always stay alert and on the lookout for approaching dogs. Once you see an impending encounter, try to assess the situation. Is the approaching dog heeling obediently next to his handler, indicating a well-trained dog? Or is he pulling the handler--or worse, unleashed or alone? Assessing a situation before it happens will help you determine whether you need to change directions.  .   Put space between two unfamiliar dogs. If you choose to pass another dog and handler, be sure to put space between your dog and the approaching dog. Keep your dog on a short leash, and have him walk on the side of you that's farthest from the other dog. By putting space between two unfamiliar dogs, you will help keep them both from feeling crowded or threatened, which can lead to aggressive behavior.  .   Don't let a dog's breed fool you. While certain breeds can cause more fear and anxiety than others, how well behaved a dog is has a lot to do with training. A typically docile breed can be uncharacteristically aggressive upon meeting strangers, just as a normally aggressive breed can be docile. In other words, don't judge how an encounter will play out based on breed alone; look for other signs, like body language and control by the handler.   .   Reprimand and offer praise when called for. You and your dog are just as responsible as the approaching walkers for making an encounter with another dog trouble-free. When your dog listens and behaves while out walking with you, be sure to offer praise or treats. Likewise, when he acts aggressively or doesn't mind your commands, correct him. Teaching your dog proper sidewalk etiquette will help make uncertain encounters safe and peaceful.   .   Exude confidence. Dogs pick up on emotions, so don't let on that you're nervous or apprehensive. Be confident while out walking, even--and especially--when another dog is approaching. Speak to your dog in a calm voice, and walk with a smooth, steady pace. Whether you stop for a meet-and-greet, pass by each other, or divert your path, stay positive and composed; your dog will take your cue.   Passing another dog on the sidewalk or pathway should be an easy, uneventful experience. When in doubt about an approaching dog, however, it's better to be safe than sorry. The above tips can help make sidewalk encounters with other dogs comfortable, smooth, and free of stress.