Dogs lavish us with kisses, but cats are often more subtle in their displays of affection. While a sandpapery tongue isn’t always the sign of love we’d imagined, grooming us is our cat’s way of showing a strong trust and bond.   Cats spend a great deal of time grooming. This is part of the social bonding between a mother and her kittens as well as between cats that aren’t related, but share a strong connection. Not only does social grooming help felines clean hard-to-reach places, such as the top of their heads, but it also allows cats to exchange scents— a key part of bonding and communication in the feline world. Mother cats mark their kittens in this way, and it is not unusual for your cat to “claim” you with a bath. When he licks you, then, Kitty is not only lavishing you with affection, but is also marking you with his scent. This may sound territorial, and it is, but this practice is just another way your cat shows you belong to his inner circle of friends.   While licking is most often a source of bonding between owners and their cats, compulsive bathing can be a sign that something’s wrong. Grooming is a soothing and comforting behavior for cats, so overly anxious felines may start bathing to relieve stress. Anything from introducing a new pet to the household to taking your cat to the vet can trigger anxiety, so if this seems to be the cause behind Kitty’s compulsive bathing, try to remedy the stressful situation and give him some extra attention. If, however, your cat suddenly starts grooming vigorously for seemingly no reason, he could be in pain. Everything from fleabites to skin infections can trigger this behavior, so keep an eye out for health problems and seek your veterinarian’s advice. Experts agree that cats that were weaned too early tend to rely on the comforting action of bathing and are more likely to lick, too.   While cats’ baths are usually a sign that your pet has accepted you into his closest circle of friends, you may not always want a sandpapery tongue greeting. To avoid your cat’s kisses, learn the signs that he is about to start bathing you and distract him with a toy or treat instead. Playing with your cat often helps you bond with him, too. Remember, if your cat is licking you, it is a sign that he feels safe and secure and is truly welcoming you as a member of his family.

As much as it may alarm you, all cats have a reason when they bite. Whether it’s a reaction to pain or a simple message to get lost, your cat is trying to communication with his biting behavior, and determining the underlying cause is key to solving Kitty’s chewing conundrum.   Kittens bite as part of rough play, which teaches them to hunt for food and protect themselves as adults. Encouraging your full-grown cat to continue this type of play, however, won’t do you any favors. Cats—especially housecats that are lonely or under-stimulated—may engage in roughhousing to alleviate their boredom and burn excess energy. Your cat may also nip at you to get your attention, so pay attention next time to see if he tries to lead you off in some direction or meows immediately after biting: He may be trying to tell you to feed him, let him outside or tidy up the litter box. If however, your cat nips without backing down or showing any playful or affectionate behavior afterwards, he is likely trying to assert his dominance. Other reasons for biting include overstimulation; fear or anxiety when dogs, children or other disturbances enter the household; or pain due to an ailment, such as arthritis or an infected tooth.   Once you’re sure your cat isn’t biting due to pain from an illness or injury, you can begin working to change his behavior. If your cat’s biting stems from play fighting, rule Number One is to never use your hand as a toy. Instead, offer your cat a mouse or bird tied to a string and engage him in playtime several times a day. This will help burn off excess energy and cure boredom. If your cat goes after your hands or feet during playtime, however, stop the game immediately and walk away. After a few attempts, he should get the memo that biting cuts play short. If your cat bites when you go to pet him, or is twitching his tail, flattening his ears or otherwise appears agitated, he is trying to tell you not to touch him at that time. Respect your pet’s boundaries by not petting your cat when he is clearly agitated. Likewise, if you know your cat becomes over-stimulated after five minutes of petting, stop at three to avoid a nipping debacle. If none of the above sounds like your pet, his biting may be due to anxiety. Cats can become fearful when new people, dogs or even noises enter their households. If the source of Kitty’s discontent isn’t temporary, such as a visit from the neighbor’s children, consider easing his tension with a pheromone diffuser such as Feliway, which releases feel-good chemicals to help Kitty feel more secure.   Remember, every cat is different, so it’s important to identify your pet’s own reasons for biting. If you’ve tried troubleshooting and still can’t find a reason for the behavior, speak to your veterinarian, who can rule out illnesses and offer suggestions for your feline friend.

It may be cute in a puppy, but when your full-grown dog jumps up to greet you, it can be a nuisance and dangerous for children and elderly friends. Because dogs jump up to say “hello,” it can be difficult to break them of the habit. With some consistent training, however, you can teach your pet a more polite way to welcome you and your guests.   When puppies greet an older dog, they often lick the adult’s muzzle as an appeasement gesture. In the same way, your canine companion tries to meet you nose-to-nose, jumping on his hind legs to do so. To break your dog of his highflying habit, it is important to show him that you will only greet pets that have all four feet on the ground. If your dog jumps, don’t acknowledge him by pushing him off, but instead look over his head and turn away if necessary. As soon as your dog’s front paws are planted, reward him verbally and with affection or a treat, withdrawing your attention immediately if he hops on his hind legs again.   It is also important to replace your dog’s jumping with another behavior, which you can do by practicing the “sit and stay” greeting. Practice this type of training on your own, or with a friend by having your friend hold your dog on a loose leash and asking him to sit. You can then walk towards the two from about a dozen feet away, stopping and returning to the starting point each time your dog hops up. This will eventually help your pet form a connection between a seated greeting and a reward— your attention. If your dog gets too excited to meet a person while seated, you can try replacing jumping with holding or playing with his favorite toy instead. Remember, if he jumps up during training, remain calm and never shout or knee your dog or cause him any other pain when he hops up on humans.   Once you’ve experimented with replacing jumping with another behavior, try greeting real guests. Crate your dog, put him on a leash, or otherwise keep him calm when company comes over until he has mastered a composed “hello.” With some time and practice, your canine companion should master the art of welcoming humans without hopping up. If, however, you are struggling with training your dog shows signs of aggression, such as growling or bearing his teeth, seek help from a certified trainer. Most importantly, remember you can’t teach your dog a behavior some of the time, so be consistent about ignoring your dog when he jumps up and reinforce acceptable behavior immediately. 

Dogs are pack animals by nature and follow a sophisticated set of rules regarding pack order. Establishing yourself as your dog’s leader, then, is important from Day One. Not only will this create structure and purpose in your dog’s life, but it also ensures you have a healthy, balanced relationship with your canine companion.   One of the best ways to assert yourself as pack later—or “alpha”—is through body language and tone of voice. Dogs respond well to calm, confident commands, so remember to stand tall and stay assertive around your pet. Dogs tend to see nervous behavior as a sign that all is not well within the pack, and may try to take charge if they perceive that the order is failing. Another key to establishing dominance is to set firm rules and boundaries. Train your dog to wait at the door and enter after you’ve given him permission, for example. Have him sit or do another trick before he receives a treat or toy, and don’t let him walk ahead of you and pull on the lead during walks. Mealtime is a great opportunity to establish pack order because, in the wild, pack leaders eat first. Practice a similar setup with your dog by eating your own breakfast before he has his, and do not allow your dog to approach the table during mealtime. Make sure your pet is calm and obedient before receiving his food.   Pack leaders generally do not approach their fellow dogs, but rather, let members of the pack come to them. In the same way, do not force your affection on your dog, but allow him to approach you when he wants attention. This will reinforce your role as alpha while still giving your companion the attention he loves and deserves. You can also shower your pet with belly rubs, since your dog’s stomach is a vulnerable spot and making it available to you shows submission. Spend quality time grooming and petting your dog, slowly working your way up to petting touchy areas. Remember, leaders are always kind, never hit, and react with praise or corrections immediately and in a straightforward way that their dogs understand.   If your dog is aggressive or dominant, remember to start asserting your alpha position slowly. A sudden display of dominance could trigger a challenge and potentially lead to aggressive behavior. Creating a plan and sticking to it over time will not only give your dog structure and control, but will also create a stronger pet-owner bond, demonstrating your affection for your dog in a way he understands best.

If your cat is like most, you often find him perched atop the refrigerator, wardrobe or other lofty places. He may be fully domesticated, but your feline’s affinity for heights stems from his natural instincts. Climbing, prowling and even napping in high places gives your cat an advantage over his surroundings, providing him with a vantage point from which he can spot predators as well as prey.   Unlike humans, who like to keep our feet firmly planted on the ground, cats prefer viewing their surroundings from up high. This allows them to scan for predators— or rowdy children or dogs, as the case may be— and ensures they won’t be disturbed. Providing enough vertical spaces is important, then, to helping your cat feel safe and secure at home. In multi-cat households, having varying vertical spaces also allows your cats to display their social status without leading to feline frays. The cat occupying tallest space also holds the highest spot in the pecking order, meaning your pets don’t need to duke it out to display their rank. Another benefit to providing cats with vertical territory is that it may help remedy boredom that is common in housecats. Although indoor felines are safer than their outdoor peers, they are far more likely to become bored and get up to mischief. Vertical perches give your pet a place to explore, battling both boredom and weight-gain that are endemic in housecats. Finally, cats may simply prefer being up high because it puts them in some of the warmest spots in the house, making the top of the fridge an especially appealing spot for an afternoon nap. You can accommodate your cat’s acrobatic antics by providing vertical spaces such as a cat tree, but there’s no need to spend a load of cash satisfying Kitty’s need to climb. Household furniture such as the tops of refrigerators, bookshelves, and wardrobes can be made cat-accessible by keeping a few things in mind. Shelves should be large enough for your cat to stretch out and lounge on, for example, and need to have a non-slip surface. Make sure you provide enough surfaces at various vertical heights, especially if you have an elderly cat that struggles with agility. Perches with a good view out the window will prove especially enticing for your cat, as windows provide both entertainment and warmth. If you do own a cat tree and it seems unstable, secure it by attaching a large piece of plywood at the base to ensure your cat feels safe exploring the heights in your home.

People tend fall into two camps when it comes to dog kisses: Some come home, swoop down and let Fido lavish them with slobbery smooches, while others are repulsed by the very idea of pet saliva. Similarly, research is ambivalent when it comes to the health hazards of your dog’s kisses. While numerous parasites and bacteria might lurk in your pet’s saliva, some studies suggest his smooches could also boost your immune system and even ward off allergies and asthma.   One thing to keep in mind when deciding how far to let your canine’s kisses go is that, contrary the old wives’ tale, your dog’s mouth is not cleaner than your own. This makes perfect sense when you consider some of the things your dog sticks in his nose in. Your pet could be breeding more than bacteria in his mouth, too: Parasites such as hookworms and roundworms can also pass from dog to human through licking. People with weakened immune systems, young children and the elderly should especially consider staying away from their pet’s kisses, as their bodies are less able to fight off infections. That being said, some studies posit that pet saliva also increases the amount of good bacteria we’re exposed to, potentially boosting humans’ immunes systems. Others cite the wound-healing properties of dog salvia, which may inhibit bacterial growth and shorten the time it takes wounds to heal.   While licking can be a sign of submission and respect, excessive kisses from your canine can indicate something’s wrong. One common cause for excessive licking is anxiety or stress, caused by moving house or introducing someone new to the household, for example. Illnesses or other health problems can also cause a change in behavior, so pay close attention if your dog has suddenly started licking and call your veterinarian for advice. If, on the other hand, your dog’s excessive licking is a behavior that’s built over time, you can try simple techniques to curb his kissing, such as replacing your face with his favorite peanut butter-filled Kong. You can also try basic obedience training to demonstrate to your pet that you are not pleased with his behavior. Remember, puppies offer up face and lip licking as an appeasement gesture to their elders, so comes naturally to dogs. That means it’s important to curb the habit of excessive licking early on, before it becomes a problem. If you do choose to let your dog lavish you with kisses, be sure to regularly deworm him and treat any parasites that show up in his annual veterinary exam.

A dog may be man’s best friend, but it doesn’t always feel that way when you come home to find he’s destroyed your favorite pair of shoes or gnawed the arm of the sofa. There are several explanations for Fido’s fixation on chewing, however, ranging from separation anxiety to boredom, and identifying the underlying cause can help lead to a solution.   Dogs are most likely to chew your prized possessions as puppies, when they lose their baby teeth and turn to teething to alleviate pain as their adult teeth grow in. The good news for owners of gnaw-happy puppies is that most will outgrow this phase. Chewing comes naturally to dogs, however, and some will continue chomping away at your Italian loafers well into adulthood. Often, unwanted chewing is the product of pent-up energy that your pet needs to expel. You can prevent this boredom-relate behavior by making sure you give your pet plenty of exercise, playtime and mental stimulation. If, however, you’re sure your dog is getting enough exercise, you should pay attention to when he’s munching away at your personal possessions to determine the underlying cause. If Fido’s chewing mostly takes place while you’re away from home, it may be a sign of separation anxiety. If, on the other hand, his chewing starts suddenly, it could be a symptom of nutritional deficiencies or other gastrointestinal problems and you should seek veterinary help. Other causes could be hunger, attention-seeking or even fear.   If your puppy is chewing up the household, remember this is a phase that will likely pass and in the meantime, puppy-proof your home by moving objects you don’t want chewed out of reach. You should also take this time to establish yourself as the alpha in the relationship so you can better control unwanted behaviors as your dog grows. Remember, even after his puppy years, your dog’s natural instinct is to chew, so establishing a pack order will help lay boundaries for what is and isn’t okay to eat. If your adult dog has made a habit of snacking on your favorite slippers, focus on redirecting him to his own toys. These should be things like a Kong filled with food or rawhide bone, which won’t easily be confused with your own socks and shoes. Correct bad behavior immediately — by giving your dog a treat in return for dropping your work file, for example — because even a few minutes after the fact, he won’t remember what he did. You can also discourage chewing by “claiming” the object your dog is gnawing, using body language and assertion to show your dog that the object belongs to you. If all else fails, invest in bad-tasting sprays to deter chowing. With some effort and consistency, you should see your dog’s chewing behaviors redirected to his own toys. If you’re struggling, however, you can consider seeking professional help to rewire Fido’s fixation on mastication.

Like CPR or the Heimlich Maneuver, breaking up a dogfight is one of those skills you hope you never use. The fact is, however, not all dogs get along. The best way to deal with a dogfight is to watch for warning signs and stop aggressive behavior before it escalates. Sometimes, however, a full-fledged fight is already underway.   Your first instinct when a fight breaks out between dogs is to reach into the scuffle and grab your dog by the scruff of his neck. This maneuver, however, is more likely to leave you injured than stop the clash. Instead, if you and another person are breaking up a fight together, you should each grab a dog’s back legs and raise them up, just like you would lift a friend’s legs while doing the “wheelbarrow” when you were a kid. Without the use of his back legs, your dog will have no choice but stand on his front legs, precluding any efforts to continue fighting. Back both dogs away slowly, continuing to hold their legs in the air while you move in a backwards arc that will prevent your dog from reaching around to bite you. Once the two dogs are safely separated, try holding your pet securely until he is calm. It will help to turn him so he’s facing away from the infringing dog and distract him from his tiff.   Breaking up a dogfight up solo is significantly more challenging and dangerous, but you can proceed with caution if necessary. First, get a leash and then slowly approach the more aggressive dog until you’re close enough to loop the leash around his midsection. You’ll want to catch the dog just in front of his back legs and slip the free end of the leash through its looped handle so you can pull the loop taut. You can then pull the dog backward until you find something to fasten him to, such as a telephone pole or fence post. At this point, shift your focus to the second dog and grab him from behind using the technique described above. Again, pull him at least 20 feet away from his adversary and restrain him until the dogs are calm or help arrives. In both cases, remember to remain calm and avoid screaming or panicking, which can further agitate the dogs.   Breaking up a dogfight is dangerous and should only be a last resort. The best way to prevent injuries to both you and your pet is to know the warning signs of a fight and prevent the kerfuffle before it happens. If your dog is “smiling;” cowering and looking away; licking his lips; yawning; turning away and flattening his ears; flicking or tucking his tail; or turning his head away from the threatening dog while keeping his eyes on him, you can be sure a fight is about to break out and you should separate the two dogs immediately.

To most of us, the idea of walking a cat on a leash seems absurd. Cats are, after all, free-willed creatures that don’t respond well to discipline. Our feline friends will, however, answer to treats and praise, making leash training a viable option for some cats. Leash walking doesn’t just benefit your pet by allowing him to get a safe taste of the outdoors, but can also help him get more exercise, remedy boredom-related behavioral problems, and comes in handy during trips out of town or visits to the vet.   The first step towards training kitty to join you in the great outdoors is finding a harness that fits him properly. The two main types of harnesses are leads, which are made up of several straps that fit snugly around your cat’s neck and back, and vests, which are pieces of fabric worn exactly as the name suggests. Vests velcro or snap shut and give your cat more coverage, making them a good choice for felines that might be able to wriggle out of their leads. The harness should be snug, but not too tight— as a general rule, you should be able to fit a finger or two under the strapped harness, but no more.   Once you find the proper equipment, you want to introduce it to your cat slowly, using food for positive reinforcement. Leave the harness near kitty’s food dish, for example, or allow him to sniff it, following immediately with a treat. After practicing these simple steps, try slipping the harness on your cat, again using treats for positive reinforcement. You can also feed your cat in his harness and, eventually, he’ll be comfortable enough to let you fasten it. Don’t fret if your feline freezes up or walks in a weird way initially, as this is natural. He’ll eventually get used to his harness and begin to walk around in it. This is the time to attach a leash and following your cat around the household, using a slack lead. Continue to reinforce this activity with treats, and eventually you’ll both feel confident enough venture outdoors.   You cat will likely be wary on his first trip outside, so take slow, steady steps. Carry your leashed cat outside and place him on the ground, letting him explore at his own pace in a quiet area. Remember to never push your cat beyond his comfort zone— leash walks are, after all, meant to be an enjoyable experience for your pet. Some cats are naturally skiddish or shy and may not be good candidates for walks, so it’s important be mindful of how your pet responds to training. If he seems happy to continue, however, remember to always conduct leash training with a hungry cat who will respond to treats, and to always end each training session on a positive note, meaning its time to call it quits when your cat drops to the ground twitching his tail, for example. With some practice and patience, many owners will find they have a happier, more relaxed cat after some time outdoors.

Your dog’s decision to nap under the table or behind the sofa may seem odd, but to him it is perfectly natural. That’s because dogs seek out safe spaces to sleep, where predators cannot easily attack. More often than not, these are small, enclosed areas, which is why crates make an easy fit for most pets. Though some pet owners are put off by crates’ cage-like appearance, your dog’s crate can become his personal den, providing him with a safe space to rest once the legwork of training is over.   Crate training doesn’t just give your dog security, but can help speed up house training, protect your home from chewing, and give your dog a familiar carrier during trips to the vet or family holidays. Once your canine companion feels safe in his crate, he can stay there during short periods when you are out or busy. And, although you should never use the crate as punishment, it can be a valuable time-out spot when a puppy is feeling overly excited or tired.   Dogs that are simply placed in a crate and left there will associate the space with an unpleasant experience and be reluctant to enter again. That’s why introducing your dog to his crate slowly and carefully is crucial to successful training. As is often the case, it is best to begin crate training with a puppy. Size matters when choosing a crate, and the dimensions should be big enough for your full-grown pet to stand up, turn around, and stretch out when lying down. After picking the right crate, make it comfortable by equipping it with soft bedding, fresh water and toys or long-lasting treats, such as a stuffed Kong. To create a cozy, den-like feeling, you can also cover the crate with a blanket or sheet and place it is in a quiet corner of the house where your dog can see what’s going on, but won’t be disturbed. At the start of training, leave the door open so your pet can come and go as he pleases and praise any voluntary exploration. Encourage your pet to check out his new digs with treats and food. As you work up to asking your dog to go fully inside the crate, use a simple associative command such as “Crate” or “Bed.”   Eventually, your dog will be comfortable entering his crate and you can begin to close the door for a second or two and work up to longer spans. At this stage, you can begin feeding your dog meals inside his crate, reinforcing positive associations. Remember to remain in the room with your puppy in the beginning, but don’t acknowledge any whining or barking, as this is a cue that the closed door is cause for alarm. Instead, wait until your dog is quiet to let him out, immediately visiting the bathroom afterwards. Remember, never leave your dog in his crate for more than a few hours, except overnight once training is complete.